tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-80205896470291374502024-03-12T00:52:07.359-07:00Concretedogconcretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.comBlogger418125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-66953081893935285262024-03-11T03:54:00.000-07:002024-03-11T04:06:15.280-07:00Launching StoRPer, the opensource, modular robot rover. <p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="251" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Y8ddx1Og3Xw" width="466" youtube-src-id="Y8ddx1Og3Xw"></iframe></div><p>Last week was epic! I finally got around to launching the stoRPer robot both in terms of publishing the <a href="https://github.com/concretedog/stoRPer/tree/main">opensource repo </a>and listing a first run of boards for sale on <a href="https://www.tindie.com/products/concreted0g/storper/">the Tindie shop</a>. I'd procrastinated and stalled on getting it released as I'd imagined doing a higher end launch video and also having more functionality explored in the design at launch. I'm in a phase of "perfect is the enemy of done" at the moment so I decided to do a quicker "messydesk" style launch video (see above!) </p><p>It had a brilliant response and all the original run sold out in around 6 days with orders going all over the world. It quickly got picked up by Toms Hardware with a nice write up and also was quickly spotted on the <a href="https://www.xda-developers.com/raspberry-pi-powered-rover/">XDA developers platform</a>. Closely these articles were followed by the <a href="https://blog.tindie.com/2024/03/the-storper-open-source-awd-robot-platform/">Tindie Blog</a> (which I write for so thanks to my colleague Alex picking up the StoRPer story there) and the <a href="https://hackaday.com/2024/03/06/the-16-pcb-robot/">mighty Hackaday</a>. All this activity had pushed the original launch video to nearly 6K views which is fabulous. </p><p>So all the first run are shipped and starting to reach their owners and I've ordered a second slightly larger fabrication run and, at time of writing, we have about 49 units on the official waiting list, if you want to add your email to the waiting list this means you'll get a notification when they come back in stock. </p><p>For this week, I have been invited on Toms Hardware's "Pi Cast" number 168 on Tuesday evening (6pm GMT) to talk about StoRPer and I'm also working on a few new parts and ideas to expand the repository! </p><p>Really pleased and excited to see what the wonderful community does with them!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/prq8t9lacjc" width="433" youtube-src-id="prq8t9lacjc"></iframe></div><br /><p><br /></p>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-83945729639704902552024-02-23T06:15:00.000-08:002024-02-23T08:02:11.924-08:00FreeCAD, FOSDEM 2024 and Blender Trip.<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuJ0o0TtnGg8SEUxxLUVkzfEVzjD27s2r2qJw2svvBU-9hyphenhyphenA1q1mBm7SuK43A5oNM9SV71nlb7TkfC3-IcSb2-ZUUe85rj-PGslCik-Pa8FBgEw6z_PLwPxfR6mivj3EaxGGkfppV7USxR_Vf9w570cm-lBBRPifERFH5IW17NVCRmoQMv8ip37IRemPg/s4000/IMG_20240201_152532.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2248" data-original-width="4000" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuJ0o0TtnGg8SEUxxLUVkzfEVzjD27s2r2qJw2svvBU-9hyphenhyphenA1q1mBm7SuK43A5oNM9SV71nlb7TkfC3-IcSb2-ZUUe85rj-PGslCik-Pa8FBgEw6z_PLwPxfR6mivj3EaxGGkfppV7USxR_Vf9w570cm-lBBRPifERFH5IW17NVCRmoQMv8ip37IRemPg/w640-h360/IMG_20240201_152532.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>I recently went out to Brussels for a week which included a couple of days hanging out at Brussels Hackerspace with members of the FreeCAD community. I then attended the FreeCAD Day, which was a kind of un-conference day set up to show and tell lots of developments in the community and also have facilitated sessions of work. Then over the weekend it was FOSDEM and then some of the FreeCAD posse travelled up to Amsterdam to have a visit to the Blender Institute and meet with Ton the Blender founder. </p><p>I've written elsewhere about lots of bits of this trip, but I wanted to pull out some more personal account stuff here in a little blogpost for posterity. There's stuff here <a href="https://blog.freecad.org/2024/02/13/the-freecad-day-2024/">about FreeCAD day</a>, there is a story I wrote here about how<a href="https://blog.freecad.org/2024/02/08/freecad-ondsel-and-prusa-save-fosdem/"> FreeCAD, Ondsel and Prusa saved FOSDEM</a>, and also a general round up from <a href="https://blog.freecad.org/2024/02/16/fosdem-and-freecad-2024/">FOSDEM from the prospective of FreeCAD</a> activity here. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjftSs4kGJcJ8wItvhTCnolrE43D4rq8RDyrWeMkCYTDz1jEq0ovz-lyH8U2k9aZgKHQ1AIA_1VMY_JVy-vAMKOyppWnBhvZ2BVqMINkaktD4ao943i7O0DD2EsdVNVLq6QSsDlemRtMRSju-Q0JbpCKVPWol51yhyphenhyphenmT13PbEupt78725w5435Y6HqK1HQ/s4000/IMG_20240201_092456.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2248" data-original-width="4000" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjftSs4kGJcJ8wItvhTCnolrE43D4rq8RDyrWeMkCYTDz1jEq0ovz-lyH8U2k9aZgKHQ1AIA_1VMY_JVy-vAMKOyppWnBhvZ2BVqMINkaktD4ao943i7O0DD2EsdVNVLq6QSsDlemRtMRSju-Q0JbpCKVPWol51yhyphenhyphenmT13PbEupt78725w5435Y6HqK1HQ/w640-h360/IMG_20240201_092456.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>It was great at the beginning of the trip to hang out at Hackerspace Brussels, it's likely the last time I could visit it in it's present setting as it is planning to move to a new site shortly. It was situated in this amazing empty old industrial building. The building is set to be demolished and or converted into accommodation at some point, but until the work begins the company that owns it allows people to use the space. There is plumbing and power but also a heap of dereliction. It's full of fascinating projects and communities, and also possibly serves as a few peoples home. It definitely felt a little like a temporary autonomous region which always makes me feel relaxed. :)</p><p>Outside the building there's a large area, with a complete skatepark/bowl, loads of art and remnants of festivals and other things that have happened at the site. As I say super super cool place to hang out. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizjzznuRS-mjLBx2KuxH8-MPRcZomWHArXiYEwlPhvzAXsxhMH2eDFvMgO3EspoFa8qbRkXA1UA01FeBaaTMtoI_Dw2SpCG05qfCkGz6o0vVQvDF2bxkirlhvJODMFI7ndFwkMmCZEql7MHX5aPufF5s_u_Itt89zeBcnQJMcTKni7VDF1_j8PC0q1ETE/s4000/IMG_20240204_202037.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2248" data-original-width="4000" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizjzznuRS-mjLBx2KuxH8-MPRcZomWHArXiYEwlPhvzAXsxhMH2eDFvMgO3EspoFa8qbRkXA1UA01FeBaaTMtoI_Dw2SpCG05qfCkGz6o0vVQvDF2bxkirlhvJODMFI7ndFwkMmCZEql7MHX5aPufF5s_u_Itt89zeBcnQJMcTKni7VDF1_j8PC0q1ETE/w640-h360/IMG_20240204_202037.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>One evening my gracious hosts took me out for the evening to neighbouring city Leuven. It's a smaller place than burgeoning Brussels but super lovely with lots of old parts and lots of bars! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW-5p5OUEU55CPff8PWPkGFvpu12l4JjS1g5Qx_uOs0REdW4JHuopzYG-2YuTwy92u8UP5kEJNUrxTVQ5O8XcrpG-XipG4t9p0Ey2JVT6jQiG0K_VBimErq9FCtTWT1ybas_6rzqm3cv7vHvkKnFYCaezqY2YkIiuadGi-BcH8iOKg2kSph1laEiUigmM/s4224/IMG_20240203_102144.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3136" data-original-width="4224" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW-5p5OUEU55CPff8PWPkGFvpu12l4JjS1g5Qx_uOs0REdW4JHuopzYG-2YuTwy92u8UP5kEJNUrxTVQ5O8XcrpG-XipG4t9p0Ey2JVT6jQiG0K_VBimErq9FCtTWT1ybas_6rzqm3cv7vHvkKnFYCaezqY2YkIiuadGi-BcH8iOKg2kSph1laEiUigmM/w640-h476/IMG_20240203_102144.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>FOSDEM was a blur of excellence. It's funny how quickly you can have a FOSDEM moment and I had one very early on on the Saturday morning. The neighbouring stand to the shared FreeCAD/KiCad/LibreSpace stand was Pine64. Whilst they were still setting up a person was admiring the Pinephone sat in it's official keyboard case. They then said how much they loved small clamshell design ever since the HP Jornada 720 PDA. As a lover of the 720 myself I got chatting to them and was quickly reminising about Jlime, a linux distro/image for the Jornada. They looked at me astonished and then said that they had contributed to JLime... we both agreed it was incredible odds that we would be linked by such a secular device and distro that we took a selfie! Small world. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_FPvvVuw3CsYwkwAolxCAF40RUT_KQze2zuezLu6oz81lW4y2CddN5ogsuo-5X75LSqCyv4bZ13YOM0FzXFrWt3KLNlr9hSAbUlhYPYkY2VgqqXBQi5utGu6ZQwTtXTTuviu_oQGbyIzcxfBHzCkWc58vTLRBf1aFQawly10GVs1DyPfDKyAujTzLfYk/s4224/IMG_20240204_170126.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3136" data-original-width="4224" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_FPvvVuw3CsYwkwAolxCAF40RUT_KQze2zuezLu6oz81lW4y2CddN5ogsuo-5X75LSqCyv4bZ13YOM0FzXFrWt3KLNlr9hSAbUlhYPYkY2VgqqXBQi5utGu6ZQwTtXTTuviu_oQGbyIzcxfBHzCkWc58vTLRBf1aFQawly10GVs1DyPfDKyAujTzLfYk/w640-h476/IMG_20240204_170126.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Over FOSDEM I met loads of notable brilliant people. It was great to meet Ben on the Pine64 stand, Ben is the developer behind Ralim/Iron OS firmware which my pinecil soldering iron uses. It's ace to meet the people behind devices you use all the time. Ben also showed me a brilliant early prototype of the pinecil which he said was insane in that it didn't hold the tips/elements very well so was quite a danger at times!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJyiyo4TkII3klAjSLfnfOCVPTYzg3kCJM5jQYfgpcBk3YccByKygE-ym5xdGFkj-VEIR4yozmZUVYHfhlgsqwqgwLLyXhK_x3CpbSrFXBKaIYGIzMgCDx8ArM8JTrPaC9Vp59qMatbcNMv6R31PY_7M5YyP31QSxQzbDjLKf4SyJs_Z8sZUY6L-6HNsI/s4000/IMG_20240203_103922.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2248" data-original-width="4000" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJyiyo4TkII3klAjSLfnfOCVPTYzg3kCJM5jQYfgpcBk3YccByKygE-ym5xdGFkj-VEIR4yozmZUVYHfhlgsqwqgwLLyXhK_x3CpbSrFXBKaIYGIzMgCDx8ArM8JTrPaC9Vp59qMatbcNMv6R31PY_7M5YyP31QSxQzbDjLKf4SyJs_Z8sZUY6L-6HNsI/w640-h360/IMG_20240203_103922.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>I also got to meet Arturo from <a href="https://www.solder.party/">Solder Party</a>. I love Arturo's work and also love that he has taken the time to talk me through issues, usually caused by my own stupidity, and also helped me by discussing his stamp design for the RP2040. As well as a lovely chat, I got some amazing stickers, and I got to see and touch an amazing top secret prototype for an upcoming Solder Party product. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhna3mdD8oFD3jgudxcanF5-SpVCQ3tBe7PrjZBeebAUgGDoGMUATgBeeVeI3zFxhz0AKXDSmPKUEyybmL5RiIJ6-e1dgR6EFyrrlJVPMCwSJcr5H3rvsttTgasPwlDVtb_cVDsvgnbhOWTWB-pjUS2fxLX22qPKhPGXzGw-1l0KwqEU-VqJ6OcakWNgv4/s4000/IMG_20240203_145829.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2248" data-original-width="4000" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhna3mdD8oFD3jgudxcanF5-SpVCQ3tBe7PrjZBeebAUgGDoGMUATgBeeVeI3zFxhz0AKXDSmPKUEyybmL5RiIJ6-e1dgR6EFyrrlJVPMCwSJcr5H3rvsttTgasPwlDVtb_cVDsvgnbhOWTWB-pjUS2fxLX22qPKhPGXzGw-1l0KwqEU-VqJ6OcakWNgv4/w640-h360/IMG_20240203_145829.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>Other notable stuff was I felt really privileged to introduce Yorik, FreeCAD project lead, to a few notable people. I spotted Martin one of the core Inkscape developers and got them chatting and it was great to see and introduce old friends from the Libre Space Foundation. Speaking of which I love how good an example LSF projects are for FreeCAD and KiCad they were perfect partners on the stand. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhfslvC35fehxXktQzno_wGK30BMpTwfg9YACS1kTGerBqfHmwhyiFg9GCl_sA4av-cPwmP2g85t2eUc0vszI3ODzN3MCrnzJICKcJ2nqOUjdzLhLeFDrhyJ4KuNDNTrPyCKyZg05QA4Ez7VqmwkmNi1JElmx8_7h_2jaUidpulD7c9mlxykzkLZN9fD8/s4224/IMG_20240204_161547.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3136" data-original-width="4224" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhfslvC35fehxXktQzno_wGK30BMpTwfg9YACS1kTGerBqfHmwhyiFg9GCl_sA4av-cPwmP2g85t2eUc0vszI3ODzN3MCrnzJICKcJ2nqOUjdzLhLeFDrhyJ4KuNDNTrPyCKyZg05QA4Ez7VqmwkmNi1JElmx8_7h_2jaUidpulD7c9mlxykzkLZN9fD8/w640-h476/IMG_20240204_161547.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>Sunday was again really busy and I was too engaged at the stand to attend the only talk I really wanted to catch, Joey Castillo who makes amazing projects including <a href="https://github.com/joeycastillo/The-Open-Book">The Open Book</a>, the fantastic opensource e-reader. I was resigned that I'd probably missed my chance to say hello irl when suddenly I heard a US accent asking a colleague on the stand if Concretedog was around! Joey! Thanks for taking the time to come and find me. You rock!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHEvbGMp_YAVJ4oQn4iR_EA66tWQsXTHMOQPGEByWuJhUXmbIZ9J0wGNuwUpJ00Ic46Zy36fkiy63bdi-9Ry3GxtKy6ENRknZ_U6RHECCzTPV6fgPKbbYuju-BGRnOKdaWkbB9kKxMCs9QLTu5VDDWilPzqO3EKLRWPZCHeB61nY6DLyBIOA9R3wtNYgY/s960/IMG_20240205_135623.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="960" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHEvbGMp_YAVJ4oQn4iR_EA66tWQsXTHMOQPGEByWuJhUXmbIZ9J0wGNuwUpJ00Ic46Zy36fkiy63bdi-9Ry3GxtKy6ENRknZ_U6RHECCzTPV6fgPKbbYuju-BGRnOKdaWkbB9kKxMCs9QLTu5VDDWilPzqO3EKLRWPZCHeB61nY6DLyBIOA9R3wtNYgY/w640-h360/IMG_20240205_135623.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBPesA2RcjMGvNT9bxeLCkO_vNMUr-jOZJEs2bN0am4qVPWTVrXhQ864YuSqgcdwOkIiNlvggQp3aSGerz-Vup7D1LAyK7pnC16TPQ_bZo9QKtiUgsJtE00NBb2nDL4HBiWdUvdwRJnoByYjjz-1bkqzNH6wTduJzV-YVv2eBdUpwXoxjxB1OZZ3DVWXg/s4000/IMG_20240205_142833.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2248" data-original-width="4000" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBPesA2RcjMGvNT9bxeLCkO_vNMUr-jOZJEs2bN0am4qVPWTVrXhQ864YuSqgcdwOkIiNlvggQp3aSGerz-Vup7D1LAyK7pnC16TPQ_bZo9QKtiUgsJtE00NBb2nDL4HBiWdUvdwRJnoByYjjz-1bkqzNH6wTduJzV-YVv2eBdUpwXoxjxB1OZZ3DVWXg/w640-h360/IMG_20240205_142833.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>On the Monday a few of us went up to meet Ton at the Blender institute. It is a fabulous site with such fabulous creatives working in it. As a side note any office/campus that has dogs and also names their plants is a good place! We got a fabulous tour (I love how we all took selfies in the network room!) and then had a long sit down with Ton discussing Blender's story and how it managed to scale whilst retaining it's community members, contributors and roots. Really quite inspiring. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqx6jalVAPclY9iOwa1gJceXyYXKPOtaFhxpSFy2ekppX1mrn6JUkOM5nS80R5xIuUxgQQ-HYiMA4Z803bd6NZq_WhD6tLMHqvOzB07sLdptdprLWPceuwLOeH_RwnPd_z_rN6i7Xl01AcPWlIOEf8lv4jrjWX6KqL-azFivI8tN_k3Nt1V3uC3d-qd6w/s4000/IMG_20240205_142447.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="2248" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqx6jalVAPclY9iOwa1gJceXyYXKPOtaFhxpSFy2ekppX1mrn6JUkOM5nS80R5xIuUxgQQ-HYiMA4Z803bd6NZq_WhD6tLMHqvOzB07sLdptdprLWPceuwLOeH_RwnPd_z_rN6i7Xl01AcPWlIOEf8lv4jrjWX6KqL-azFivI8tN_k3Nt1V3uC3d-qd6w/w360-h640/IMG_20240205_142447.jpg" width="360" /></a></div><br /><p>SO there we go. A fab trip. Brilliant to meet parts of the FreeCAD crew who I've only ever interacted with online. Next FreeCAD Day is provisionally being looked at in Chicago later in the year. Maybe!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnDIJn40u8EX3KoZUDzXuMioCZUgvd1AnUhbgk2-22w-z1JykqufEAOu_B-bYhi-kzu6_y1kMZgpSPBYe_ogVjN6oiKu5rp09oBTJAoOFo4-tFcpUKWlY05wPaP9padfAU9Qq4KTptbMGsmvKi4t_0mGdnPzGfYFr6KjmBPWRC5dVSuuSlpvxyByDCjN0/s4000/IMG_20240205_122415.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2248" data-original-width="4000" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnDIJn40u8EX3KoZUDzXuMioCZUgvd1AnUhbgk2-22w-z1JykqufEAOu_B-bYhi-kzu6_y1kMZgpSPBYe_ogVjN6oiKu5rp09oBTJAoOFo4-tFcpUKWlY05wPaP9padfAU9Qq4KTptbMGsmvKi4t_0mGdnPzGfYFr6KjmBPWRC5dVSuuSlpvxyByDCjN0/w640-h360/IMG_20240205_122415.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p><br /></p>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-24472297686235670172024-02-21T08:28:00.000-08:002024-02-21T08:28:40.398-08:00New FreeCAD Video, How to Unwrap Meshes to Make Mould Templates<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="319" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/SRU8ui5kujc" width="464" youtube-src-id="SRU8ui5kujc"></iframe></div><br /><p></p><p>Posted this video the other day, it's a process that allows you to take curvy surfaces and create flat templates for them via meshing and unwrapping. Obviously I've focused on making templates/patterns for moulding rocket nosecones, but equally the process could be useful for loads of things. </p>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-38874274018482947032023-12-19T11:07:00.000-08:002023-12-19T11:07:06.348-08:00Custom Motor files for Simulations in OpenRocket from Thrust Curve Image<p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiizq8wSFWPYysyIlkHithSwxBCP1il8-gfYYFvdASI6E3cjPw1C4Ld3f2-rToUhMglYC_7y48f-bTCLZle444tx0Bp4oK-JATfayAEazpwXbg4vxdwSJdfz4BfI_cdg1-d0AMr1PT1m3DF7K-H8M5CpNum4QTC26HEpiKWOdjUbDus5DyOwZmIhgKNJIo/s1915/openrocket.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="990" data-original-width="1915" height="330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiizq8wSFWPYysyIlkHithSwxBCP1il8-gfYYFvdASI6E3cjPw1C4Ld3f2-rToUhMglYC_7y48f-bTCLZle444tx0Bp4oK-JATfayAEazpwXbg4vxdwSJdfz4BfI_cdg1-d0AMr1PT1m3DF7K-H8M5CpNum4QTC26HEpiKWOdjUbDus5DyOwZmIhgKNJIo/w640-h330/openrocket.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://openrocket.info/"><br /></a></div><a href="https://openrocket.info/">Openrocket</a> is excellent and it’s fantastic to have opensource tools to design rockets and then simulate them in flight. The simulation aspect relies not only on the rocket design but also on good data being available for the rocket motor you wish to simulate. Openrocket has a built in database of RASP/.eng motor files for many common motors. If you are using an Estes for example then you are pretty much assured to find it in the database to run your simulation. What can we do though if our motor isn’t available in the database.<br /><br /><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"></blockquote><span style="text-align: justify;">Well a first solution would be to see if there is a RASP/.eng file for your motor anywhere online. Starting off at the manufacturers site and then perhaps perusing through a few forums to see of you can search it out. Recently though I was looking at a new and pretty unknown motor here in the UK, the TSP E20, and I couldn’t find a file for it anywhere.</span><div><span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYz1S7yL3Fdh8RT85HOj9GoU05yxHNnEAZM8LPvjTYhyk2_ubx5cC3lelh0NNC3f6bzc7JRcnJ221_RW28MYotbeGvjMzSPJcSHT3XfHAoO0S6cVjLyC0hx8GwYu1h1N5m57lomA8Vw_aabou4qi2sb7Dllj3YdK39AhoVSiK03uwVJf5ezTZFAyiRV3U/s1661/tsp_E20_thrustcurve_0-2.4secs_0-40N.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="603" data-original-width="1661" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYz1S7yL3Fdh8RT85HOj9GoU05yxHNnEAZM8LPvjTYhyk2_ubx5cC3lelh0NNC3f6bzc7JRcnJ221_RW28MYotbeGvjMzSPJcSHT3XfHAoO0S6cVjLyC0hx8GwYu1h1N5m57lomA8Vw_aabou4qi2sb7Dllj3YdK39AhoVSiK03uwVJf5ezTZFAyiRV3U/w640-h232/tsp_E20_thrustcurve_0-2.4secs_0-40N.jpg" width="640" /></a><span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span><br /><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"></blockquote><span style="text-align: justify;">What I could find though were thrust curve diagrams for the motor provided by the manufacturer. I then recalled that there was a piece of software that purportedly could trace over a thrust curve image and create the file I needed. The piece of software that can do this is a small Java application called <a href="https://www.thrustcurve.org/info/tctracer.html">TCTracer</a> and it’s available over on the <a href="https://www.thrustcurve.org/">Thrustcurve site</a>. It’s available for a range of operating systems including windows Mac and Linux and it installed flawlessly on my Arch Linux machine.</span></div><div><span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpHMZeTYfVCXfL1lRj_rz2KWRUsNoZIU1_D8lVgyUveXUKrcdzj9aPGGFY4cSs8MkZQbFGd65odhMrPRCbT3KSRnLYpzqnSI_UHmqAX_uUU8AHMr-mo5iClqwauH5hk7-ZhDTiVXJe9qWzUiwEA9uNEj2z2EFv8L43MPumbHrPqHIts0ChDc01QKpB-Pw/s1324/2_grid_setup.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="843" data-original-width="1324" height="408" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpHMZeTYfVCXfL1lRj_rz2KWRUsNoZIU1_D8lVgyUveXUKrcdzj9aPGGFY4cSs8MkZQbFGd65odhMrPRCbT3KSRnLYpzqnSI_UHmqAX_uUU8AHMr-mo5iClqwauH5hk7-ZhDTiVXJe9qWzUiwEA9uNEj2z2EFv8L43MPumbHrPqHIts0ChDc01QKpB-Pw/w640-h408/2_grid_setup.png" width="640" /></a><span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span><br /><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"></blockquote><span style="text-align: justify;">With that installed and the image of the target motors thrust curve diagram (a screenshot will do) we can create our motor file. You first import the image into the TCTracer application. As a side note I first trimmed my screenshot image with the wonderful <a href="https://www.gimp.org/">free and opensource GIMP image editor.</a> Whilst trimming made it slightly easier you can scale the grid in TCTracer to accurately place the grid range over your image regardless of what extra imagery is on the page.</span><br /><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><p style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; line-height: 1px; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><br /></p></blockquote><br /><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"></blockquote><span style="text-align: justify;">Next in TCTracer click the “Setup Grid” button. You should see a small dialogue box “Grid Overlay which needs some details adding. First of all is the X axis start and end points in seconds. Most of the time you will want to start at 0 seconds and for our TSP E20 motor the curve chart data was logged till 2.4 seconds with a marker line at every 0.2 seconds. So we set the X axis at 0 to 2.4 seconds. The next line is the sub divisions of the X axis. Counter intuitively this isn’t expecting a value in seconds, it requires a whole number value that represents the number of subdivisions between the start and end point. In reality you can actually leave this empty or place “1” in there as you don’t strictly need the subdivisions, but it can be nice to make everything match up well visually. For our example we added “11” which means our 2.4 seconds contained the correct amount to place a subdivision marker at every 0.2 seconds. The last two lines are similar for the Y axis, you select the maximum height value and then the number of subdivisions. Our thrust curve diagram had a Y axis scale up to 40N in increments of 10N, even though the motor topped out at a little over 36N. So we set the Y axis as 0 to 40, the number of sub divisions to be 3 and set the units to Newtons using the drop down menu. Finally you need to drag the grid lines to align them with your image, note that you align them to the image chart lines and not the peak of the curve.</span></div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3NGPlg9Bc8WlnMnI5X4Cgdo_6kEbx0Gx6xngNkZ-reG-t0qH8VYim5KtmwTzvx5rLsDNTkXC5e5Ru4aU9q0G8zU8oZFLM2oEMIgoMbUhGbRXfdNi_WO30eENvYLkfwZQYVoWjHjeklcj_WqjNQ2b0XUEbzkz8PBDEo2J7jelhyphenhyphenrsE3bgdk-r8u7pxZl4/s1320/2_traced.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="839" data-original-width="1320" height="406" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3NGPlg9Bc8WlnMnI5X4Cgdo_6kEbx0Gx6xngNkZ-reG-t0qH8VYim5KtmwTzvx5rLsDNTkXC5e5Ru4aU9q0G8zU8oZFLM2oEMIgoMbUhGbRXfdNi_WO30eENvYLkfwZQYVoWjHjeklcj_WqjNQ2b0XUEbzkz8PBDEo2J7jelhyphenhyphenrsE3bgdk-r8u7pxZl4/w640-h406/2_traced.png" width="640" /></a></div><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><p style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; line-height: 1px; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><br /></p></blockquote><br /><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"></blockquote><span style="text-align: justify;">Next click the “Draw Points” button. You can then trace over the curve in your image. You don’t need to place a point at the zero time point rather just start clicking the line to trace over it. At the end of the thrust curve you definitely need one point to have returned to zero thrust or else you will have a small error indicator at the bottom of the page. To undo a misplaced trace point simply left click on it again to make it disappear.</span></div><div><span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisQP0U5qmCu1s_9_nbPT27-wq_5ZVTYJrHBucHJp7sW9d0k5aENZsAhGM1LWR2C8Sumao4nhqITYDJ5P5vHrgAKP43knomBdeWWH6T73lUpS425pR7Yb9vgjDjmE1VFdYAXBQh5yr7j2bu8M2rl6cy-Pj-xV_Iw6b7nwctvMProjNEJiCJsoZcTjC3I7U/s964/2_motor_info.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="668" data-original-width="964" height="444" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisQP0U5qmCu1s_9_nbPT27-wq_5ZVTYJrHBucHJp7sW9d0k5aENZsAhGM1LWR2C8Sumao4nhqITYDJ5P5vHrgAKP43knomBdeWWH6T73lUpS425pR7Yb9vgjDjmE1VFdYAXBQh5yr7j2bu8M2rl6cy-Pj-xV_Iw6b7nwctvMProjNEJiCJsoZcTjC3I7U/w640-h444/2_motor_info.png" width="640" /></a><br /></span><br /><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"></blockquote><span style="text-align: justify;">The final part of the process is to click the “Motor Info” button and in the Motor Information dialogue add the details of the motor. This is a largely straightforward if you have the data about the length and the weights of both the complete motor and the propellant. To add a choice of ejection delays you can add the value in seconds followed by a “-” so for example 4-6-8 in the delays section of the motor info dialogue will allow you to switch between a 4, 6 or 8 second delay in Openrocket. With all your motor information added click OK. Finally click the “Save Data” tab/button and save the .eng file.</span></div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXyJMBwtWh66GOJ_PYTEiCLj1jXvtQiWWnEjP6PZOFQhX_xrbDTJwaqrrOZI-cUPufNOVL5zYsQnnLk7xzVuVNZAd5qNvR4n4us7Sl-VcpDnvfuKQBww9BHenakaUSVx62RKfyK632SYVUfRZgFuPom10HYINGUfUgGi0fXPDVSMg6nyqYoNgL0chUAFk/s744/2_rocket_motor_in_openrocket.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="349" data-original-width="744" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXyJMBwtWh66GOJ_PYTEiCLj1jXvtQiWWnEjP6PZOFQhX_xrbDTJwaqrrOZI-cUPufNOVL5zYsQnnLk7xzVuVNZAd5qNvR4n4us7Sl-VcpDnvfuKQBww9BHenakaUSVx62RKfyK632SYVUfRZgFuPom10HYINGUfUgGi0fXPDVSMg6nyqYoNgL0chUAFk/w640-h300/2_rocket_motor_in_openrocket.png" width="640" /></a></div><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><p style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; line-height: 1px; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><br /></p></blockquote><br /><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"></blockquote><span style="text-align: justify;">In Openrocket you need to provide a path to where you have stored your .eng files. To do this in openrocket click “Edit” and then “Preferences”. On the main preferences dialogue box there is a section titled “user defined thrust curves” click the “add” button in this section and navigate to the folder/directory holding your .eng files and then click the new “add” button. I’ve found I need to then close and reopen Openrocket to set up the path correctly. Now if I go into select a motor I have the TSP E20 with various delays available to select for simulation.</span><br /><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><p style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; line-height: 1px; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><br /></p></blockquote><br /><span style="text-align: justify;">Massive kudos to John Coker who created TCTracer and maintains the Thrustcurve.org site.</span><br /><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><p style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; line-height: 1px; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><br /></p></blockquote></blockquote></div>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-38218302828759365502023-10-31T07:28:00.001-07:002023-10-31T07:28:27.480-07:00Desk Vice Restoration, 3D printed jaws from Pop/Soda Bottles!<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjqCodrGkq5LI3SvrjQhqbL8em8HOkSO1fi2E9QhA8EoXwHQX6OwCbcphUY68owYsWVPkVmKJlFnV8Scn67UFFuyyYa_LcihTRcwBgxnVJXgEeVks7cOe7UTc0XGjFKXTAgLEOIORTYeO4ISDSeZsdXRXct3Fb30wCIX-vjFZR-I0JaY4AJkVI19YvgFM/s4000/IMG_20231031_134409.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1844" data-original-width="4000" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjqCodrGkq5LI3SvrjQhqbL8em8HOkSO1fi2E9QhA8EoXwHQX6OwCbcphUY68owYsWVPkVmKJlFnV8Scn67UFFuyyYa_LcihTRcwBgxnVJXgEeVks7cOe7UTc0XGjFKXTAgLEOIORTYeO4ISDSeZsdXRXct3Fb30wCIX-vjFZR-I0JaY4AJkVI19YvgFM/w640-h296/IMG_20231031_134409.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I love having a desk vice at my workstation. For ages I used my small Record "Imp" vice but that is doing good work in one of the sheds. I'd been using a cheap new no brand clamp on vice for a while but I was fed up with the non replaceable jaws not closing true. I spotted this interesting vice on Ebay a while ago which, although unbranded, is a reasonable little thing that also can swivel on it's base. I liked the width of it and the general form factor and put in a very low bid. It was pointed out in the listing that one jaw had been replaced with a piece of wood so I won the auction for very little cash!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcKQnffaZvfki2p8-RzwL-MMjBsiTQ-LpSlJJI5zqGuw0fBPXdCLYuP9Wmh8g1PW8jBTwWSkU6vNoeo1VdXi1LZdz5tsekyTNVOCCnEeWWFXpqovS6nNzpR9x75PhL8fcqhv6gnxN181LKniHo8hY6qH7lHp9qu9oVWvFTjjxwB-VcPGAHAxuZPGEqoZc/s1420/IMG_20231022_174556.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="655" data-original-width="1420" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcKQnffaZvfki2p8-RzwL-MMjBsiTQ-LpSlJJI5zqGuw0fBPXdCLYuP9Wmh8g1PW8jBTwWSkU6vNoeo1VdXi1LZdz5tsekyTNVOCCnEeWWFXpqovS6nNzpR9x75PhL8fcqhv6gnxN181LKniHo8hY6qH7lHp9qu9oVWvFTjjxwB-VcPGAHAxuZPGEqoZc/w640-h296/IMG_20231022_174556.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">As arrived the vice was a bit sorry looking with it's one wooden jaw that had been glued on! I stripped off the wooden and the steel jaw and cleaned off as much glue as I could. The metal jaw was held on with 2 M4 bolts and, after cleaning and then re tapping, the holes behind the wooden jaw were ready to be used again. I don't really do anything heavy on my desk vice, small work holding is the order of the day with anything needing more than delicate handling going into a bigger vice in the sheds. Whilst I should have fired up the milling machine and made up a set of aluminium soft jaws for this I decided to do a quick experiment and 3D print some jaws. After a quick digital caliper session on the original steel jaw I quickly knocked up a jaw in the <a href="https://www.freecad.org/">amazing FreeCAD</a>. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNvJiqlbtc0aNVv4JVqrmP-toU1yCCm7S61lhvHVWD2k7xw0zHH6Fz8mNbgWJ74_qyYoGI4oi0wErbLTEOIMqCRYuFB_uVh5u7NfqI0INOMP_ag1hX1nFSTTQy6y0MP5oJ_tIhnxWGZ2fyy1SXIeOj89HyLS6ZYdEcBHsBG2-p4gD5GKTEXAV7Ppt-PcI/s1280/vice_jaw.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="894" data-original-width="1280" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNvJiqlbtc0aNVv4JVqrmP-toU1yCCm7S61lhvHVWD2k7xw0zHH6Fz8mNbgWJ74_qyYoGI4oi0wErbLTEOIMqCRYuFB_uVh5u7NfqI0INOMP_ag1hX1nFSTTQy6y0MP5oJ_tIhnxWGZ2fyy1SXIeOj89HyLS6ZYdEcBHsBG2-p4gD5GKTEXAV7Ppt-PcI/w640-h448/vice_jaw.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Finally, I printed the jaws and fitted them. Interestingly I've <a href="https://www.rs-online.com/designspark/3d-printing-from-recycled-plastic-bottles-part-1">recently written a series of articles over on RS Designspark where I built a "pullstrusion" system </a>capable of turning plastic pop/soda bottles into decent 3D printable filament. So these jaws used to be about one and a half 2 litre lemonade bottles. You could probably make 2 jaws from one bottle but I bumped up the infill to around 50% to make them a little durable. So far the jaws have held up well. You could also consider them semi sacrificial as it's trivial to print up a new set. Speaking of which I definitely plan to print up a set in flexible TPU filament to create a proper set of soft jaws. </div><br /> </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p></p>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-32189655199115108492023-10-18T04:22:00.008-07:002023-10-18T08:09:12.801-07:00FreeCAD and Openrocket, a fabulous combination!<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiYXAs8Xg6LNwd5bK0-7gG9pepCtlQI0O9WtWX-30OgknGxxJy7j8LWZsrGb5Pu1XRKlFap273ikvit1G7djYoUZhFSzo42vflymBl1pH6hf3P8iUXCj3yXxlmPpOVfDMEnZspdzMyLnmYISvyvaQIlGGkwzTmppGKdTKr9iMBW5WlVX_A2-MkwYKInvU/s1653/freecad.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="894" data-original-width="1653" height="346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiYXAs8Xg6LNwd5bK0-7gG9pepCtlQI0O9WtWX-30OgknGxxJy7j8LWZsrGb5Pu1XRKlFap273ikvit1G7djYoUZhFSzo42vflymBl1pH6hf3P8iUXCj3yXxlmPpOVfDMEnZspdzMyLnmYISvyvaQIlGGkwzTmppGKdTKr9iMBW5WlVX_A2-MkwYKInvU/w640-h346/freecad.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.freecad.org/">FreeCAD</a>, aside from generally being an excellent free and opensource CAD environment is ever developing and being extended. Over the last year or so a really interesting development has been the Rocket workbench. If you are new at the zoo, FreeCAD works with a workbench system where different workbenches contain lots of different tools grouped into themes. So for example if you want to convert a 3D part into a technical drawing there is a specific Techdraw workbench which, when you switch to it, has all the tools to lay out a technical drawing. Many workbenches are built in but you can also download and install extra workbenches of which the Rocket workbench is a good example. I’d love to see more rocketry people using FreeCAD and so this post is aiming to show why FreeCAD, as well as <a href="https://openrocket.info/">Openrocket</a>, might be well worth learning!</blockquote><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDGm5U1tGBXwUQddGmu3QoqAGFT_wGfDrPDtVvtlMcqT6jgGfSkgkbEE0KjWPD-LzrJxs2sJqPhoT1AP9nXks_2hncT62OiQbDGna4Pq2dSwhZljc3sSrlSgoTtFZQxtXIDYfilVExE843ofgJRsrf3_7SpgXAnEnJnrcOkWknlJNCB6uiEC-5QyGmFI4/s1676/rocket_fincan.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1015" data-original-width="1676" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDGm5U1tGBXwUQddGmu3QoqAGFT_wGfDrPDtVvtlMcqT6jgGfSkgkbEE0KjWPD-LzrJxs2sJqPhoT1AP9nXks_2hncT62OiQbDGna4Pq2dSwhZljc3sSrlSgoTtFZQxtXIDYfilVExE843ofgJRsrf3_7SpgXAnEnJnrcOkWknlJNCB6uiEC-5QyGmFI4/w640-h388/rocket_fincan.png" width="640" /></a></div><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><p style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; line-height: 1px; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;"><br /></p>Openrocket and FreeCAD have lots of active development happening and it just happens that an amazing contributor, Dave Carter, AKA <a href="https://twitter.com/DavesRocketShop">DavesRocketShop</a>, is contributing development to both these excellent opensource pieces of software. Further than that Dave realises how powerful interaction between Openrocket and FreeCAD might be and is working to make both these packages work together usefully.<br /></blockquote><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOOj5EgVcUvqhxbXFcHfwXn_TY-2n-1PxH9hfLVDIMX13cGmZ-ML7U90MPZgr6M-L_mjSxxcwgPejZkg9Y3d4VTX9BcHK6IK4aieazGyPZ1iod5oyzVjvO7hwtktPOCUu5qDcKuTtm5fgOD6OMuHixN419YcwQTlsECY7fFEvB0-FPlXf7LZx7zzgFPqg/s1714/openrocket_database.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="969" data-original-width="1714" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOOj5EgVcUvqhxbXFcHfwXn_TY-2n-1PxH9hfLVDIMX13cGmZ-ML7U90MPZgr6M-L_mjSxxcwgPejZkg9Y3d4VTX9BcHK6IK4aieazGyPZ1iod5oyzVjvO7hwtktPOCUu5qDcKuTtm5fgOD6OMuHixN419YcwQTlsECY7fFEvB0-FPlXf7LZx7zzgFPqg/w640-h362/openrocket_database.png" width="640" /></a></div><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><p style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; line-height: 1px; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;"><br /></p>As a starter example (but frankly enough of a reason for many rocketry types to learn some basics of both these packages) is the built in parts database. In Openrocket if you are designing a rocket from scratch you might chose to incorporate an off the shelf nosecone for example. Clicking the Nosecone icon in openrocket the component database will either launch automatically, or you can launch it from the regular nosecone dialogue window by clicking the “parts library” button in the upper right hand corner. Either way you’ll see a well maintained and curated list of commercially available nosecones from a range of manufacturers.<br /><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><p style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; line-height: 1px; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p></blockquote></blockquote><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJPZtbMBwaCQ6MaBAV29StRFVz8zmc2PwSxCa_JYLJ893MG8-biByGOXt7wpb07hW8R1l1pHRhNxR7rCvwnmnZyEkEms5ZrztQCa1rZJW2eicsdJKQWOhVVniuKT2SgKxCJgezyASwBGfa_pCKqDRzG9JCTvKco3aRrFR7stiymnSA0qTnBrj8_YPFEbg/s1914/rocket_wb1.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="995" data-original-width="1914" height="332" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJPZtbMBwaCQ6MaBAV29StRFVz8zmc2PwSxCa_JYLJ893MG8-biByGOXt7wpb07hW8R1l1pHRhNxR7rCvwnmnZyEkEms5ZrztQCa1rZJW2eicsdJKQWOhVVniuKT2SgKxCJgezyASwBGfa_pCKqDRzG9JCTvKco3aRrFR7stiymnSA0qTnBrj8_YPFEbg/w640-h332/rocket_wb1.png" width="640" /></a></div><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><p style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; line-height: 1px; margin-bottom: 0cm;"></p></blockquote><p style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; line-height: 1px; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;"><br /></p>OK, Over to FreeCAD. Say we now can’t find that commercial part to buy in our local rocket shop we might think about having to draw it in CAD and perhaps 3D print it. Well, the exact same database is available in the Rocket Workbench in FreeCAD. Clicking the nosecone tool icon should launch a nosecone parameter dialogue in the combo view window on the left of the screen. Scrolling down you can click “Lookup” to launch the exact same database of components as you just launched in openrocket. You can scroll to the same nosecone and select it and it will appear as an object in the live preview and also as an object in the combo view. If you wanted to simply 3D print this you can select the object in the combo view window and then click “File-Export” to export the nosecone ready for printing. You can pretty much do this without learning any more about FreeCAD and Openrocket if you wanted too, but, if we learn a few more skills, we can do some other really simple yet useful rocketry tasks.</blockquote><p> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn83ltIWu5-6tYl88MuiPqCD3ubsPuAuTQjZpyqzzaI82OIRMvLosNzDgXLvY6eFlEfRdSMZDDCqfd3F1zwJofZ1yYl5JbCUpT8G9bNDG5jADjdRPGMmyT6c8AFVzLmxJR8A1j8n-3QoodAB_2JzGYlQOFK7l7DYUnVMCeBFDTgpJoU_ns-J7zVoKeLRI/s1911/draft_wb1.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1048" data-original-width="1911" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn83ltIWu5-6tYl88MuiPqCD3ubsPuAuTQjZpyqzzaI82OIRMvLosNzDgXLvY6eFlEfRdSMZDDCqfd3F1zwJofZ1yYl5JbCUpT8G9bNDG5jADjdRPGMmyT6c8AFVzLmxJR8A1j8n-3QoodAB_2JzGYlQOFK7l7DYUnVMCeBFDTgpJoU_ns-J7zVoKeLRI/w640-h350/draft_wb1.png" width="640" /></a></p><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><br /><p style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; line-height: 1px; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p></blockquote>Another simple example perhaps of use is imagining we want to build an upscale version of a rocket with a scaled up nosecone. If we select a nosecone from the database in FreeCAD we can then jump over to the Draft Workbench. With the nosecone selected we can now click the “Scale” tool icon. As a tip to help you find tools, if you hover over any icon in FreeCAD it will say the name and a small description of the tool and I describe the tools with the names these rollover descriptions use. In the scale dialogue click the “enter point” button and in the next dialogue make sure that both the “Uniform Scaling” and the “Create Clone” buttons are selected. Then change any one of the X Y or Z axis scale amounts to the scale you require, so for example if you want to double the size of the nosecone change one value to “2”. The other values should change automatically and then when you click OK an upscaled (or downscaled) version of your nosecone will appear as an object.<br /></blockquote><p> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPmYicnB_NJMTMfMyJ1JSe2ztTZ5f3MPlnNT2TfWZeXBYGiHtqPOuM-75g_zrza_udN6i0Pu39-TajOk632FymQzHLwI8yT_YykcxROGDC7JcO4JeF0N7KojZXLCp_ULfb-dVM_BrrgPYKzo23HzNG9np2ntOvt4quk7flDeu9k2TYZVwCvc4YbNCq1jo/s1914/finalnc.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1037" data-original-width="1914" height="346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPmYicnB_NJMTMfMyJ1JSe2ztTZ5f3MPlnNT2TfWZeXBYGiHtqPOuM-75g_zrza_udN6i0Pu39-TajOk632FymQzHLwI8yT_YykcxROGDC7JcO4JeF0N7KojZXLCp_ULfb-dVM_BrrgPYKzo23HzNG9np2ntOvt4quk7flDeu9k2TYZVwCvc4YbNCq1jo/w640-h346/finalnc.png" width="640" /></a></p><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><p style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; line-height: 1px; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;"><br /></p>Finally, for this example, if you know a little about using FreeCAD you can easily add geometry to parts you create on the rocket workbench. In the image I’ve simply brought a cloned nosecone part into the Part Design workbench and then added some features to make an attachment point for a recovery system. If you are interested in developing your FreeCAD skills my free to download tutorial book <a href="https://hackspace.raspberrypi.com/books/freecad">FreeCAD for Makers is available from the Raspberry Pi Press here</a>.<br /></blockquote><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDtQrlXhZChswis7ZNX-NTobVvgB0wW8-fVxZGLbqh4AP6BeKbOF0gVgnEhR2uIikJfigP4yUCLHCNz20zXNr7lVMgIimEweJnjfxAXtMFRHxiyZT3-SvlaaS7DrDVEPDoB8SVHpSFmzMeodT1g-aFyfikS9m5K0rZE55WdLJEaomVzgkha7VS3cGd0-Y/s1016/rocketrywb_icons.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="761" data-original-width="1016" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDtQrlXhZChswis7ZNX-NTobVvgB0wW8-fVxZGLbqh4AP6BeKbOF0gVgnEhR2uIikJfigP4yUCLHCNz20zXNr7lVMgIimEweJnjfxAXtMFRHxiyZT3-SvlaaS7DrDVEPDoB8SVHpSFmzMeodT1g-aFyfikS9m5K0rZE55WdLJEaomVzgkha7VS3cGd0-Y/w640-h480/rocketrywb_icons.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><p style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; line-height: 1px; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;"><br /></p>This is only the tip of the iceberg in terms of what what FreeCAD and Openrocket are capable of. The Rocket workbench is amazing in terms of what it can automatically generate parts wise. Nosecones, transitions, tubes rings, rail buttons, rail guides and more; there is a really impressive fin can generator as well as some pretty high end fin flutter analysis tools. The real beauty is that you can simply transfer dimensions and data over from a design you have worked on in Openrocket. Having rebuilt it quickly in FreeCAD there are so many options available, as an example I can simply select a centring ring in the FreeCAD design and take that part to the Path workbench and create toolpaths to then cut the rings on my CNC router. I can export all manner of files for parts for laser cutting or other processes. It’s a really good tool to learn some skills on if you are a rocket fanatic!<br /></blockquote><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><p style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; line-height: 1px; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p></blockquote></blockquote>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-28200077259888272472023-10-02T02:10:00.002-07:002023-10-02T02:10:24.228-07:00Ballooning at Liverpool Makefest and Lessons Learnt. <p><span style="background-color: white;"> </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit62KtwP-j-WZWlCHWsSnx8BXfze7KnOTb14EtTrDbR1PFtKr7JrvjHJSo82-B4vC-WhSYwwTicdcumHhUSY-TMMAwecBLy9hR_x3dVXN2_5AA2iUXJw2oF2vHnOGlJMFSRfaSIP6jn6IzYKoQ6PdDIlTZXO4u9uLm3eBK45qLlWIj-AMbL6zYq_NKxEo/s1024/me_n_balloon.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit62KtwP-j-WZWlCHWsSnx8BXfze7KnOTb14EtTrDbR1PFtKr7JrvjHJSo82-B4vC-WhSYwwTicdcumHhUSY-TMMAwecBLy9hR_x3dVXN2_5AA2iUXJw2oF2vHnOGlJMFSRfaSIP6jn6IzYKoQ6PdDIlTZXO4u9uLm3eBK45qLlWIj-AMbL6zYq_NKxEo/w480-h640/me_n_balloon.jpeg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p><p><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Roboto, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-variant-ligatures: none; letter-spacing: 0.1px; white-space-collapse: preserve;">So this could win the award for the most overdue blogpost ever. Back in summer I attended Liverpool Makefest as a maker and showed off lots of flying stuff under the title "Concretedogs Flight Lab", which coincidentally is also the title of book of projects I've been not finishing for a long time! One of the activities I showed and told at Makefest was my DIY Hot Air Balloons. </span></span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinZsMB_TW2OmcoU_8QbjSZ6OjR8Iv5IKxCLt8jYJCupYeG38UaPqLyXNhqKRbASo7MG4a6suaifP0sfWG5GpYodXrwTEVygLd0R1foiWqdKiOWyNUjqvkFJ5i9gE7nJzHzY1C2bFnuDfR5GZCi9xirBTIif94sdByxMfQRR3hlKwByGaOzEnEwpeT6HVs/s1616/wide_balloon.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1616" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinZsMB_TW2OmcoU_8QbjSZ6OjR8Iv5IKxCLt8jYJCupYeG38UaPqLyXNhqKRbASo7MG4a6suaifP0sfWG5GpYodXrwTEVygLd0R1foiWqdKiOWyNUjqvkFJ5i9gE7nJzHzY1C2bFnuDfR5GZCi9xirBTIif94sdByxMfQRR3hlKwByGaOzEnEwpeT6HVs/w640-h428/wide_balloon.jpeg" width="640" /></a></p><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Roboto, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-variant-ligatures: none; letter-spacing: 0.1px; white-space-collapse: preserve;">I originally wrote about these ideas back in <a href="https://hackspace.raspberrypi.com/issues/61">Hackspace Magazine Issue 61</a> where I talk about their construction. As most councils have quite rightly banned the use of fire filled disposable balloons the approach here is to heat the balloons to perform shorter hop like flights and, when indoors, use a light kite line as a tether.</span></span><div><span style="font-family: Roboto, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-variant-ligatures: none; letter-spacing: 0.1px; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><br /></span></span></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB7seXQ_M_4XfzcLyPHPW29SaHyKcDIC4GqXrumHQUYuWNGqqZvGNg1TG8sz2oiyIo6ktJSO_sV1pGXwtay34QUgtsDFaXDIM8huYpBYevuMeAQftOWRirjTkKsarns-AVZWM90i14RVBFC7x4nFwnZfloBRYY_6thzpybwk6V2oTxh50VLG89Neai1UE/s1213/CDAS_liv.png" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="684" data-original-width="1213" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB7seXQ_M_4XfzcLyPHPW29SaHyKcDIC4GqXrumHQUYuWNGqqZvGNg1TG8sz2oiyIo6ktJSO_sV1pGXwtay34QUgtsDFaXDIM8huYpBYevuMeAQftOWRirjTkKsarns-AVZWM90i14RVBFC7x4nFwnZfloBRYY_6thzpybwk6V2oTxh50VLG89Neai1UE/w640-h360/CDAS_liv.png" width="640" /></a></div><div><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Roboto, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-variant-ligatures: none; letter-spacing: 0.1px; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Roboto, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-variant-ligatures: none; letter-spacing: 0.1px; white-space-collapse: preserve;">Previously I'd heated the balloons having an assistant hold them up and I fill them from the base with a single electric heat gun. But in an attempt to create more lift for this event I made a chimney from a meter length of vitreous enamel pipe into which fed 2 electric heat guns. It definitely makes more lift but I think the concept could be improved a lot. One of the issues is that the air is constantly moving and being pumped into and out of the balloon. It would be better to have less movement of the hot air and more heating! One possible solution would be to have a series of baffles in the chimney so that it creates more heat and less airflow. The other option I'm still really keen to try on a calm day outdoors is using a camping stove in the base of the chimney to get a high temperature whilst not creating a moving column of air. </span></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Roboto, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-variant-ligatures: none; letter-spacing: 0.1px; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Roboto, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-variant-ligatures: none; letter-spacing: 0.1px; white-space-collapse: preserve;">The other challenges are the tether, there is of course the challenge of keeping the tether light and as altitude increases the weight of the tether becomes more apparent. Another problem I had at Liverpool was that if the tether snagged (usually on me!) this would cause a jerk in the line and often, especially when the balloon was quite high with a lot of tether weight, the balloon canopy would tear. I'm planning to run some experiments with a small length of really lightweight thin shockcord/elastic at the balloon end to try and mitigate this problem. </span></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Roboto, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-variant-ligatures: none; letter-spacing: 0.1px; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn06OKOkdbdk1GtKJ0qMzCjf4Hm_e3ts_i_twroF-u16sOw2MV65GVqxS13QUZEHcJQxMuxLdEVpqeMXkDhwFdzaJGnAoMqDCY9J4ogzyRzROT6ng2GYSptuhPsx9d2c3CwE0I9Xr_lkn-m2ixaz5P_WKc4_QJhvigQtEzNx1Vi8015t06HAcLEbprpT0/s2000/balloon_top_atrium.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="922" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn06OKOkdbdk1GtKJ0qMzCjf4Hm_e3ts_i_twroF-u16sOw2MV65GVqxS13QUZEHcJQxMuxLdEVpqeMXkDhwFdzaJGnAoMqDCY9J4ogzyRzROT6ng2GYSptuhPsx9d2c3CwE0I9Xr_lkn-m2ixaz5P_WKc4_QJhvigQtEzNx1Vi8015t06HAcLEbprpT0/w296-h640/balloon_top_atrium.jpeg" width="296" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Roboto, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-variant-ligatures: none; letter-spacing: 0.1px; white-space-collapse: preserve;">Wrapping up, this activity was great, loads of people mentioned that they wanted to try it and lots of people were entertained by the site of the balloons. It really is a lot of fun for a couple of quids worth of materials! </span></span></span></div></div>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-45793908209776689582023-09-04T06:52:00.002-07:002023-09-04T06:52:10.516-07:00Starting HEMA Longsword, Indoor Training Sword Project on Printables<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7xnaOCnROEGknfYKEVS2eq-S9omHfhhG13r_CWW55zC-ejjhj2-y41TjH3WUUBgqn4miKnnWZHskbxXEWn4WgnI-vmcN85SsCetG4spyuDazQ5rpPAGUpcUeqz9wDeppA_bnKlA4mMdzw0H5Jw8cHDxX1SZ-IF5IocFYwhwp12XOavvJhHiZ9pg08b-o/s4000/IMG_20230902_125517.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="1844" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7xnaOCnROEGknfYKEVS2eq-S9omHfhhG13r_CWW55zC-ejjhj2-y41TjH3WUUBgqn4miKnnWZHskbxXEWn4WgnI-vmcN85SsCetG4spyuDazQ5rpPAGUpcUeqz9wDeppA_bnKlA4mMdzw0H5Jw8cHDxX1SZ-IF5IocFYwhwp12XOavvJhHiZ9pg08b-o/w296-h640/IMG_20230902_125517.jpg" width="296" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "Atlas Grotesk Web"; font-size: 16px;">I've recently started training in HEMA (Historical European Martial Arts) with a focus on German longsword. I live in a small house with quite low ceilings so swinging a meter plus synthetic trainer around won't work. I'd been using a length of 25mm dowel but you have no edge orientation, ie which side of the sword is which, or crossguard orientation so wanted to improve it.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "Atlas Grotesk Web"; font-size: 16px;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9EG8ln4SGFRmDsJNrEDgRR_oy5Qqwoxf4bpUEhoA7OkzORlGSrL3PMStdWsT58zw7ebK-SfFqs7BUe7_P0uO1-7N3yt7Q9AI7frN3vOxrs4-okIdWWXCumfHCP6WpzO72lnbJSwuzCj9zZ7Uhe28tIM_5UXOFp6ANJL-bHiRh4MvceFrXm4Rl8LFxm7Q/s4000/IMG_20230903_153329.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1844" data-original-width="4000" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9EG8ln4SGFRmDsJNrEDgRR_oy5Qqwoxf4bpUEhoA7OkzORlGSrL3PMStdWsT58zw7ebK-SfFqs7BUe7_P0uO1-7N3yt7Q9AI7frN3vOxrs4-okIdWWXCumfHCP6WpzO72lnbJSwuzCj9zZ7Uhe28tIM_5UXOFp6ANJL-bHiRh4MvceFrXm4Rl8LFxm7Q/w640-h296/IMG_20230903_153329.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I've modelled a simple small crossguard and a pommel in FreeCAD and printed them out. I glued the crossguard sections out in petg and have glued them into position to give me a similar length handle to my synthetic trainer. The pommel is glued on first to make sure its exactly lined up and then a screw was inserted into the printed and countersunk hole to make sure it definitely stays in place. The slight challenge with a piece of 25mm dowel is that it obviously isn't balanced in the correct position or weigh anything like a synthetic trainer or a steel federschwert. So to partially rectify this I've drilled (off centre of course!) a long hole into the tip of the dowel and poured in glue and added lead weights. Whilst this doesn't make it as heavy as a steel it does correct the balance point to around 6 cm in front of the guard. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidnLQLuucXgQven9lmHt4nd9Mexhml0ckiGI9xx6ex_f9R0IhJpdDpbMth33Cw1UdZLBvZqdQ7nmS-EIL8DV2-0uWV_XK21gPUM6L4uJvM8EFXfS0Pp4eXprECdcpD-a0OoEmrNP2an5hqcBJhUepKesE49-DfIbexpTWqsFry2GEG6MW2BMbalWCajsg/s4000/IMG_20230902_125532.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="1844" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidnLQLuucXgQven9lmHt4nd9Mexhml0ckiGI9xx6ex_f9R0IhJpdDpbMth33Cw1UdZLBvZqdQ7nmS-EIL8DV2-0uWV_XK21gPUM6L4uJvM8EFXfS0Pp4eXprECdcpD-a0OoEmrNP2an5hqcBJhUepKesE49-DfIbexpTWqsFry2GEG6MW2BMbalWCajsg/w296-h640/IMG_20230902_125532.jpg" width="296" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It works really well and whilst it definitely is not as good as getting outside with a full length trainer or steel it is excellent for indoor wet weather sessions or for sticking in a bag for use in a hotel room etc! I've put both the STL and the FreeCAD project <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/572882-hema-longsword-indoor-trainer">files up on Printables here</a>. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhQgaBQT8qewuu_L-CwIUsS7_yBeWOJl8SkJNYQomIjG1IS3t82fAZ_bDGUnaSngWskHe65xcXQVUH__QDH7lykYIdWV2acd36nHLmQhLWJiULecy79TRadPJSbg5gcadg1ow8gH7-DJVHJpFEk4-QEAyWbO30tkGZ6sqRBy3zEMYyb_KZ4eDeAP4NiV4/s4000/IMG_20230903_153400.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1844" data-original-width="4000" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhQgaBQT8qewuu_L-CwIUsS7_yBeWOJl8SkJNYQomIjG1IS3t82fAZ_bDGUnaSngWskHe65xcXQVUH__QDH7lykYIdWV2acd36nHLmQhLWJiULecy79TRadPJSbg5gcadg1ow8gH7-DJVHJpFEk4-QEAyWbO30tkGZ6sqRBy3zEMYyb_KZ4eDeAP4NiV4/w640-h296/IMG_20230903_153400.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /> <p></p>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-24710576573758850552023-08-20T11:23:00.003-07:002023-08-20T11:33:49.319-07:00Cheap Wireless Earpick (eeeurgh) makes Reasonable Inspection Camera<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYsTa8AZIxuVc6fr_pfi8nV-3Ic5k2el1oJnIbLXe4-M_4TywBwpDXY9rpJKvhuPfuY_dVGi86gkS2nb5KnrsOUdIXEQO2adQq5oeTLn6gxX8zF8An0J6cuKYQsQzBTRcGzY3jfnEDrwuf61e8Hom8OcETGdW4N0wYzVV-PiZl_k9ioe7Q5TH-auuBkGQ/s4000/IMG_20230820_150940.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1844" data-original-width="4000" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYsTa8AZIxuVc6fr_pfi8nV-3Ic5k2el1oJnIbLXe4-M_4TywBwpDXY9rpJKvhuPfuY_dVGi86gkS2nb5KnrsOUdIXEQO2adQq5oeTLn6gxX8zF8An0J6cuKYQsQzBTRcGzY3jfnEDrwuf61e8Hom8OcETGdW4N0wYzVV-PiZl_k9ioe7Q5TH-auuBkGQ/w640-h296/IMG_20230820_150940.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I'd seen a couple of examples of people buying these little "earpick" cameras and using them as electronics inspection cameras. I then saw the NE3 earpick camera for just £6.99 delivered so thought it was worth a go. I DEFINITELY DO NOT recommend these as an item you should stick in your ear... in general I believe the best advice is that nothing should be put in your ears unless under the direction of a medical practitioner. Anyway, the £6.99 device arrived, it's pen sized, has a single button, a metal tube/probe and came with some soft silicon attachments for digging around in your ear. Curiously mine also arrived with an extra small leather pouch outside of the main box with some steel implements inside it.. again.. these aren't going anywhere near my ears, but I may yet think of a use for them!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTycJ9coJgyqQ6oiG9_rRvnmFKqbWeREjQYDHjnIdM1NMQqYnB66f5aVAb5RovezAx82mo0kvmxPTZIiIIMHMKNr8G0NxJC6d7BKJxEQAFCA0YQrT8Mzqdf81A-AURAVM2ErN5UOEZh_Dl5N6OJ0kq4-z3cC59olYcDGmlkLH3fEbWmc-B5iW7tbsi4nU/s4000/IMG_20230820_181604.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1844" data-original-width="4000" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTycJ9coJgyqQ6oiG9_rRvnmFKqbWeREjQYDHjnIdM1NMQqYnB66f5aVAb5RovezAx82mo0kvmxPTZIiIIMHMKNr8G0NxJC6d7BKJxEQAFCA0YQrT8Mzqdf81A-AURAVM2ErN5UOEZh_Dl5N6OJ0kq4-z3cC59olYcDGmlkLH3fEbWmc-B5iW7tbsi4nU/w640-h296/IMG_20230820_181604.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">When you turn the device on with a long press of the button the camera end of the probe illuminates with a decent amount of light. The device broadcasts it's own SSID and you need to download a slightly spurious, but functional, Android app from a QR code in the manual. In the app you select the wireless network and then you get a live image (with very little latency I was surprised to see) on your device. You can then click to take a photo or long press to create a video clip. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV59fAOUli608gptf8t6QZoinBZH_wskNScmdoOQdqwwWeu-8VmkAp1ASTHP4vEcx1vMhaCU6n8-wRDxvTCGV78dWrQLap8hqFUgMuf-jKGb5bLHsrpSmrWN03ij9aLNRKgZVsgFYXOlPn4K9VMH3Olfq5FETwB3yOJemzJ1kbIC2waEFHoxPAvciBb-E/s4000/IMG_20230820_181615.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1844" data-original-width="4000" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV59fAOUli608gptf8t6QZoinBZH_wskNScmdoOQdqwwWeu-8VmkAp1ASTHP4vEcx1vMhaCU6n8-wRDxvTCGV78dWrQLap8hqFUgMuf-jKGb5bLHsrpSmrWN03ij9aLNRKgZVsgFYXOlPn4K9VMH3Olfq5FETwB3yOJemzJ1kbIC2waEFHoxPAvciBb-E/w640-h296/IMG_20230820_181615.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It's not super high resolution and is distinctly SD in it's flavour, but it's probably more than enough for inspection situations when you are out and about and away from anything better. I could certainly imagine using it to poke into little gaps and holes in enclosures and perhaps for peaking into rocket airframes. For £6.99 it's a steal. </div><div><br /></div>FWIW The device charges via USB C and theres a small cable included. Other models and other people have found that if they USB similar devices to a laptop that they can get these to appear as web cams. I haven't been able to get this to be detected on any of my linux boxes, but I'll keep tinkering and feedback. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_C5FnvXJz6euKah2GCJFEu1byDt9xDGZ1JGlFOpSh1dPBLAkDav4jQHvKm23r9KWtsbKCh6xv6FwJYvdyZdCgfFCsg-ZEBv1KPGM9H15lj5rnqfWYIeT8fyuwZo-8UCV_boxMI2ff8laABIk3z07V8UdHjJxnvBQAdleJXGHC_x3eZAuUCzHdqnJxNsw/s480/1692551711732.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="360" data-original-width="480" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_C5FnvXJz6euKah2GCJFEu1byDt9xDGZ1JGlFOpSh1dPBLAkDav4jQHvKm23r9KWtsbKCh6xv6FwJYvdyZdCgfFCsg-ZEBv1KPGM9H15lj5rnqfWYIeT8fyuwZo-8UCV_boxMI2ff8laABIk3z07V8UdHjJxnvBQAdleJXGHC_x3eZAuUCzHdqnJxNsw/w640-h480/1692551711732.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Just to finish off here is a tiny video clip from the device. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="379" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/csRvMEE6Mzs" width="456" youtube-src-id="csRvMEE6Mzs"></iframe></div><br /></div><br /><p><br /></p>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-23848884692090501092023-07-24T05:33:00.002-07:002023-07-24T05:33:08.307-07:00Makerspace Arran<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ_h5IsGig6j15EeYyU-YU_nB1ipTk4uzALB9Mj3F9r2DGZwOIh-w0v86WwxiVq8rFbMvz73eUWkJMAnZM7te9_m-0lb0hhSkDl4KeflZXVh4Sdc7AHw2prD3DT8qXHazdZfBsA9aBXIpHFO9lzVJ32fP1gYmlmkgMQHN5gyLSCuFxLUw5O5LOjrehxSM/s4000/IMG_20230721_115532.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2248" data-original-width="4000" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ_h5IsGig6j15EeYyU-YU_nB1ipTk4uzALB9Mj3F9r2DGZwOIh-w0v86WwxiVq8rFbMvz73eUWkJMAnZM7te9_m-0lb0hhSkDl4KeflZXVh4Sdc7AHw2prD3DT8qXHazdZfBsA9aBXIpHFO9lzVJ32fP1gYmlmkgMQHN5gyLSCuFxLUw5O5LOjrehxSM/w640-h360/IMG_20230721_115532.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="RY3tic" data-latest-bg="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-MVXzd7okFl1UxISkfNQh91GF0w2CMw4Q6Z7ICV4HDaoymSNpg5DDoVqHQn_smgH-ShdeLtwHknX7UNxWriGERjSEnb56GEhA24BgbZrcT4bqeGdKCYKtkizbzbPGN7wUd0MakH-8AKo/w402-h226-no/?authuser=0" style="background-image: url("https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-MVXzd7okFl1UxISkfNQh91GF0w2CMw4Q6Z7ICV4HDaoymSNpg5DDoVqHQn_smgH-ShdeLtwHknX7UNxWriGERjSEnb56GEhA24BgbZrcT4bqeGdKCYKtkizbzbPGN7wUd0MakH-8AKo/w402-h226-no/?authuser=0"), url("https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-MVXzd7okFl1UxISkfNQh91GF0w2CMw4Q6Z7ICV4HDaoymSNpg5DDoVqHQn_smgH-ShdeLtwHknX7UNxWriGERjSEnb56GEhA24BgbZrcT4bqeGdKCYKtkizbzbPGN7wUd0MakH-8AKo/w72-h40-k-rw-no/?authuser=0"); opacity: 1;"><div aria-hidden="true" class="eGiHwc"></div><div aria-hidden="true" class="KYCEmd"></div></div><p>I'm really lucky that over the years I've got to visit and work out of loads of makerspaces, hackerspaces, fablabs and others. Mostly in the UK but a few notable overseas ones also. I can't say that this one is overseas, well apart from you need to get a ferry to visit Makerspace Arran on the fantastic and beautiful Isle of Arran. </p><p>In fact, if memory serves this is only my second ever Scottish makerspace, my first being the sadly missed Maklab in Glasgow which I was lucky to visit and hot desk from a few times over the years. I was really interested to have a quick look at Makerspace Arran as it's in a similarly remote and rural position as some of the<a href="https://www.arloesigwyneddwledig.cymru/en/prosiectau/ffiws/"> Ffiws makerspaces </a>I've been involved with here in North Wales. It was only a flying visit but it was lovely to see a few of the projects I'd spotted on Makerspace Arran's social media in the flesh. The space is actually on two levels with the ground floor being a shop. The location of the shop is right at the start of a very popular walking trail up Goat Fell which is the highest summit on the Isle of Arran. Also at the foot of the path around the makerspace are a garden centre, a pub (which does great chips) a microbrewery and a leather workers workshop and shop. There's a stack of parking and a lot of tourist footfall in the area. </p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrt04AQGchYwyXb8dkwh49rYcRIq6bRm-hs-vNIdjR-hsarxqLGp_iDMLRmyQd_KjZKlCn9jvmTtwa1Pxs0QB74kzVbF0_1MhO-XVG9XfrF90or-SuQHV8nQ1Dtp2COUQU0DsTm1EqEz995-iKF4kcslPO5ix8Ax4VNLFQtEmcxYlXy2wA4R437LqyIvQ/s4000/IMG_20230721_113743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2248" data-original-width="4000" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrt04AQGchYwyXb8dkwh49rYcRIq6bRm-hs-vNIdjR-hsarxqLGp_iDMLRmyQd_KjZKlCn9jvmTtwa1Pxs0QB74kzVbF0_1MhO-XVG9XfrF90or-SuQHV8nQ1Dtp2COUQU0DsTm1EqEz995-iKF4kcslPO5ix8Ax4VNLFQtEmcxYlXy2wA4R437LqyIvQ/w640-h360/IMG_20230721_113743.jpg" width="640" /></a></p><p>The shop sells stuff that has either been made in house or has been made on the island and has a great range of gift items that are really nicely curated and relevant to the location. There are no "kiss me quick hats" or other generic stuff, everything is made here, and has links to Arran. It's really impressive. There's lots of stock of tee shirts commemorating your walk up Goat Fell and small lasercut medals as a reminder of your successful ascent. They've researched some of the traditional historical games that would have been played on the island in times gone by and reproduced them using the laser cutter. They are also up for helping out other producers and makers. </p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhcW0SZCLWDHf3R4PudK8Sg9mia0B4hSp_HIdh495ZkzcLi5JPxUmbFOt8qN_afWuaiGH8feEZITVm-c7qV5gYYc4VG5pUN8v9Vk_7XgZq4cmpYpFTyRx1rv8p5kWg5uch7-UXFuW2bGb3oQWMLcU1Rgi-l6sKKeAjwaSWg_9gAIV58aXDT2tp2-J5edI/s3264/IMG_20230721_113817.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1836" data-original-width="3264" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhcW0SZCLWDHf3R4PudK8Sg9mia0B4hSp_HIdh495ZkzcLi5JPxUmbFOt8qN_afWuaiGH8feEZITVm-c7qV5gYYc4VG5pUN8v9Vk_7XgZq4cmpYpFTyRx1rv8p5kWg5uch7-UXFuW2bGb3oQWMLcU1Rgi-l6sKKeAjwaSWg_9gAIV58aXDT2tp2-J5edI/w640-h360/IMG_20230721_113817.jpg" width="640" /></a></p><p>There were some lovely cast epoxy broaches and necklaces where the epoxy has been cast into the shape of Arran itself and Mark told me about how they had used the 3D printers to help create objects to then create silicon moulds from to help the maker increase production and accuracy. One fantastic project is the lasercut Liberator 1 LB30A kit which has a sad connection to Arran in that one crashed into Mullach Buidhe in 1941. The lasercut kit is created in 1.5mm plywood and has interestingly used as a <a href="https://smokeandmirrors.store/blogs/blog/from-journal-to-laser-cutter">source an old book of air plane silhouettes which was created in wartime</a> as a guide for civilians to identify aircraft. </p><p>They aren't all about the profit though, the small makerspace located above the shop is beginning to look at running workshops for anyone to book into. There's currently an exploration to see if there is enough interest in workshops around scale modelling using kits. I did offer to run a FreeCAD workshop up in the space whilst we were visiting but sadly, due to some makerspace members being off the island that week it wasn't to be! Ah well maybe next time!</p><p><br /></p>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-81532192934168598482023-05-09T09:45:00.001-07:002023-05-10T01:47:30.946-07:00Hipster PDA Stencils, My First Printables Upload. <p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHbcZGbpgGavqT9oJtjtfj-1AU6ijofw554fgXbNDDqkuJ6zscKje8stCfwHpVv-IEAhiHt_WdwOuesiBvfiIvGyoFIPLERiByn828eMHyuQ8vv3hgWdiJx9_HGlEYTZC7YV9GWc2avB6iKP_sGv-9affNLpdnDU9MJyLb7eWBrpQBS6mXWg3qZUJy/s4000/IMG_20230509_165854.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2248" data-original-width="4000" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHbcZGbpgGavqT9oJtjtfj-1AU6ijofw554fgXbNDDqkuJ6zscKje8stCfwHpVv-IEAhiHt_WdwOuesiBvfiIvGyoFIPLERiByn828eMHyuQ8vv3hgWdiJx9_HGlEYTZC7YV9GWc2avB6iKP_sGv-9affNLpdnDU9MJyLb7eWBrpQBS6mXWg3qZUJy/w640-h360/IMG_20230509_165854.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Long time readers (and my what a wonderful select bunch you are!) will recall I've been pretty obsessed with Index Cards and the idea of the <a href="https://www.43folders.com/2004/09/03/introducing-the-hipster-pda">Hipster PDA</a> for a long time. Over the years I've designed, tinkered with and scavenged all manner of HPDA systems ranging from the classic binder clip and card, through to <a href="https://concretedog.blogspot.com/2022/09/unconscious-making-useful-note-board.html">unconscious making of HPDA boards</a> and even a nice <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4389329">Living Hinge Lasercut Design over on thingiverse</a>. I've also recently started keeping an offline calendar, this is for a few reasons, one is at both my gym and where I train martial arts I have no signal/connectivity (yes rural mountain N Wales still offers some pockets of no 4G!) but I still need to check dates for sessions and exams and such. Some true disciples of the HPDA path go as far as buying printers that will directly print to 3*5" card blanks, but I wanted to take a leaf from the "journaling" community and create some stencils. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVdN2bgsUGLTpgmkGBI4qx8ZxdKfEcq8TJ3aByJ_Hx88FyWyuAlJ0hc5YFCslQcVwCmGZj5Lub3D3vSc6i4BGBVCErpeisTAdVEzbPBMm5dm62_c2Gbvk7i009eLSwv-BzwXQ2KafBD1hBz6Vt19gJjGmaUA4Wm-M46Rg6wY28X7vR68Ypp690hcz0/s4000/IMG_20230509_165812.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2248" data-original-width="4000" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVdN2bgsUGLTpgmkGBI4qx8ZxdKfEcq8TJ3aByJ_Hx88FyWyuAlJ0hc5YFCslQcVwCmGZj5Lub3D3vSc6i4BGBVCErpeisTAdVEzbPBMm5dm62_c2Gbvk7i009eLSwv-BzwXQ2KafBD1hBz6Vt19gJjGmaUA4Wm-M46Rg6wY28X7vR68Ypp690hcz0/w640-h360/IMG_20230509_165812.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So there's 3 stencils so far, a simple tick list, a universal calendar and a slightly odd mind map one! I've also been meaning to move over to Printables as a site to share my occasional small designs and so thought these might make a good first upload. <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/476260-hipster-pda-stencils">Do feel free to check them out, download and print</a>! </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Z885yzhxpqPS_0qj908uWY7-KClmHIPv1_NI38E_ur872qgvlNX_jinOAQh20UMHfY9Ta9Jwyrw69OsxStMTg5NtWWRyqf90fEpFoCemO0O_Fx7JzGy1eFinORs3uH_ocedYOaWaMFJkFA8aUrRgQ1isrMb9UH3DLyXhUPBp_OImjSIT8e0g6Zq6/s4000/IMG_20230509_170254.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2248" data-original-width="4000" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Z885yzhxpqPS_0qj908uWY7-KClmHIPv1_NI38E_ur872qgvlNX_jinOAQh20UMHfY9Ta9Jwyrw69OsxStMTg5NtWWRyqf90fEpFoCemO0O_Fx7JzGy1eFinORs3uH_ocedYOaWaMFJkFA8aUrRgQ1isrMb9UH3DLyXhUPBp_OImjSIT8e0g6Zq6/w640-h360/IMG_20230509_170254.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p></p>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-72769793335712052572023-05-01T07:40:00.007-07:002023-05-01T07:40:56.376-07:00DPPD, The Drop Pod Parachute Deployer<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="304" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/s9FfwdGEx5w" width="532" youtube-src-id="s9FfwdGEx5w"></iframe></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Just uploaded a video of the DPPD, as it reached the significant milestone of having operational code, and, although not mechanically complete, is a functional prototype running happily off a small LiPo cell. It's a good example of my new Pull/Drop pin switches which I'm selling, amongst other bits and bobs on my <a href="https://www.tindie.com/stores/concreted0g/">Tindie store</a>. </div><br /><p></p><p>If you are interested I also put up another video (below) which goes through the setup and use of the Pull/Drop pin switches... it also has an amusing section where my brain cannot remember the word Kevlar! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="628" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0fn_fFcgjkk" width="522" youtube-src-id="0fn_fFcgjkk"></iframe></div><br /><p><br /></p>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-67671363798008760322023-04-24T11:49:00.002-07:002023-04-24T11:49:39.486-07:00New Stuff on Tindie and more in the pipeline!<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5I7FNvD-KoX1uyjaFahtJce6O9eLhYEpQh9dEG9XDmG2h1HEawlDJ7_be5rLEsYVxNYQL3oDXEirypHyWwQeGZ2rp2hnrnmfUvyPx4xZUhx_BkwZIGt9XEmqC1_PvYqoW_Qku5jZTe_q5ALXLDzM54jfWPo6rcWa8viaxWG6MV5Yruc0X8WzJWcq6/s950/MK2_screw.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="654" data-original-width="950" height="440" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5I7FNvD-KoX1uyjaFahtJce6O9eLhYEpQh9dEG9XDmG2h1HEawlDJ7_be5rLEsYVxNYQL3oDXEirypHyWwQeGZ2rp2hnrnmfUvyPx4xZUhx_BkwZIGt9XEmqC1_PvYqoW_Qku5jZTe_q5ALXLDzM54jfWPo6rcWa8viaxWG6MV5Yruc0X8WzJWcq6/w640-h440/MK2_screw.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>It's been a while since I restocked Tindie, and I only used to have a couple of products but a few things I've been making and building recently others said they would find useful so a few new items have made it to the store. <a href="https://www.tindie.com/products/concreted0g/mk2-rocketry-screw-switches/">First up is a remake of my popular Rocketry Screw Switches</a>. The originals I used to CNC rout here in my lair, but finding time to run the machine was a faff, so I re-span the design to be able to get them produced by <a href="https://oshpark.com/">OSHpark</a> meaning that I can restock them a little easier if they sell out. I won't waffle too much detail here but if you want a rugged set of switches that survive high g violence then these could be just the ticket whether that for a rocket or a combat robot or anything else!<div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgDNAyQyYyMQs9FKl1geXu1_K5WvyH8TL1l2dA-FxQNABGPrJr36Gp0hK35dvpartivSDwHv3kaGgGPyB_wITcpOV_WBEEEd8bn0DD7hxxmr0Y09wQOaIeAMrO2WNHAyUuiTE9NsMNgX5PeE_0vmTPZgCp5xKwxqHqHp0K5LgUnLXGf_7aOpCLe6pw/s600/pullpin.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="532" data-original-width="600" height="568" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgDNAyQyYyMQs9FKl1geXu1_K5WvyH8TL1l2dA-FxQNABGPrJr36Gp0hK35dvpartivSDwHv3kaGgGPyB_wITcpOV_WBEEEd8bn0DD7hxxmr0Y09wQOaIeAMrO2WNHAyUuiTE9NsMNgX5PeE_0vmTPZgCp5xKwxqHqHp0K5LgUnLXGf_7aOpCLe6pw/w640-h568/pullpin.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next up and new at the zoo is a<a href="https://www.tindie.com/products/concreted0g/pull-pindrop-pin-switch/"> kit of parts to make a Pull Pin style switch</a>, excellent for remove before flight arming or there are options and features that make this attractive for low friction " Drop a payload with the pin staying on the vehicle" type systems!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Finally completing the trio of bits is a little <a href="https://www.tindie.com/products/concreted0g/polarity-protector/">assembled PCB which acts as a polarity protector</a>, these are small enough to be soldered inline in a cable and covered with a little heatshrink, they can work at any voltage up to 20V DC and with a max current of 4.3A. If ever the power is connected backwards no current can flow through the board and both the board and the attached project will be undamaged. Connected correctly the little board draws less than a milliamp with no step down in voltage. Neat and can save your expensive experiment/avionics/altimeter etc on the other side! Check out the <a href="https://www.tindie.com/stores/concreted0g/">whole store here.</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkn8m3VzQiuVYfbRVXFMb13g4a2tIs6hFHSIHDj3YzxK2StA9m5kndxyd5XVzg0wQY9s2-r5Q25iRaluW9FyeVrDZ8-za-0VVrGq03vDJTFzDhTJ-mjf-7okRuSRqbT0ql7S4e5kca2Cd22rroFhdpOLGIGMmgbU2_BYt8_oRILErcwChO3JEcCu8v/s515/polarity_protector.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="422" data-original-width="515" height="524" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkn8m3VzQiuVYfbRVXFMb13g4a2tIs6hFHSIHDj3YzxK2StA9m5kndxyd5XVzg0wQY9s2-r5Q25iRaluW9FyeVrDZ8-za-0VVrGq03vDJTFzDhTJ-mjf-7okRuSRqbT0ql7S4e5kca2Cd22rroFhdpOLGIGMmgbU2_BYt8_oRILErcwChO3JEcCu8v/w640-h524/polarity_protector.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p></div>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-17203762148690798232023-04-18T04:30:00.001-07:002023-04-18T04:30:32.531-07:00New Pin Switch Video and Tindie store previews!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="399" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0fn_fFcgjkk" width="687" youtube-src-id="0fn_fFcgjkk"></iframe></div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Been working on a few small projects and amongst them I've ended up designing, or redesigning some components that I think might be of interest for others, so over the next couple of weeks I'm going to get put some of these up on my, long neglected, <a href="https://www.tindie.com/stores/concreted0g/">Tindie store</a>. In the above video I'm doing a show and tell of some new pull pin switch assemblies which can be used as rocketry arming switches but also can be of use for payload drop mechanisms or other pull pin applications. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I've also remade a version of my rocketry screw switches (although these are useful for any system that needs rugged violence proof power switching.. combat robots etc) I used to make these CNC routing them in my lair but that took a lot of time and I never got around to doing it so re-spinning the design means I can get the PCB fabricated by OSHpark. This means I should be able to produce stock quicker with less hassle for me, I plan to sell these in packs of 2 for $7.95, roughly £6.50.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Finally, I've also revisited my polarity protector board. These little boards only allow power through if they are connected the right way and therefore protect attached projects from reversed polarity. They draw a tiny amount of power (I don't even have anything capable of accurately measuring such small draw!) and can handle up to 20V input up to a continuous 4.3A. They are tiny and can be soldered into a wiring loom and covered in some heatshrink, or you can use them with pin headers, you could even attach the output to a breadboard. I'll put more details up on the Tindie listing when I get some stock built!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-10951908002340888392023-03-16T13:29:00.002-07:002023-03-16T13:29:57.156-07:00Manjaro, Rocketry tools agogo!<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEUE07Ls1f7LGWvaceSFXX6fHODqhwKQ1G7I6Yf98odJxCNwulBQsuwJqiA3UWGvJSG14tizOou9AxnOExzT6_2jM2IS2EtU7_2cJN8wiKNKpU2OgRkOc7j63mYDdzkRuffX2KStsHTq29Uus9dD4rllMA3LxPgGAeix2nixOM7AO7xBJYgLmJQVbn/s1920/Screenshot_2023-03-15_14-07-09.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEUE07Ls1f7LGWvaceSFXX6fHODqhwKQ1G7I6Yf98odJxCNwulBQsuwJqiA3UWGvJSG14tizOou9AxnOExzT6_2jM2IS2EtU7_2cJN8wiKNKpU2OgRkOc7j63mYDdzkRuffX2KStsHTq29Uus9dD4rllMA3LxPgGAeix2nixOM7AO7xBJYgLmJQVbn/w640-h360/Screenshot_2023-03-15_14-07-09.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">I've been a long time Linux user with my first distro back in the day being <a href="http://puredyne.org/">Pure:Dyne</a> followed by <a href="https://dyne.org/software/dynebolic/">Dyne:Bolic</a>. In more recent times I've tended to lazily reach for Ubuntu as it's mostly worked and I've spent a bit of time around variants like Kubuntu, Lubuntu and Xubuntu. However, I've started getting a bit disgruntled with the Ubuntu experience, I've not been a fan of snap which has been more and more intrusive and generally it's not been the easy, hassle free experience I want. </span></div><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">So Manjaro, I'd actually played with this on the <a href="https://www.pine64.org/pinephone/">pinephone </a>as a phone OS and found it nicely designed and quite refined so have been trying it a bit on and off and then finally this week got around to doing a full install of Manjaro Xfce on one of my laptops. Install is really straightforward and everything has worked driver wise. I made the bootable pendrive a couple of months back using 21.3.7 and there were a few updates on first install and everything went smoothly. A notification that there was a newer kernel led me to quickly use the Manjaro Settings Manager gui to really simply update the kernel to the latest stable and again, everything was plain sailing with this. </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQRodq-z36DQbU3E5Wr2s-FGANnIbZsy8NpQ59vVpbTIrpGp8cKUcovtWf1c0bqwO3yF7smUyyJsqk1ThcjFtU28JIQH8BNa2je-FL00vlpQxUIIsBHUkHUH0m-oS2S23j4kTLvkHlAUVl4sN9WPHUHgesefHXlPG1hrLw6VnLozWWVdOzCklOJ4m6/s609/Screenshot_2023-03-15_15-13-18.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="481" data-original-width="609" height="506" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQRodq-z36DQbU3E5Wr2s-FGANnIbZsy8NpQ59vVpbTIrpGp8cKUcovtWf1c0bqwO3yF7smUyyJsqk1ThcjFtU28JIQH8BNa2je-FL00vlpQxUIIsBHUkHUH0m-oS2S23j4kTLvkHlAUVl4sN9WPHUHgesefHXlPG1hrLw6VnLozWWVdOzCklOJ4m6/w640-h506/Screenshot_2023-03-15_15-13-18.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So, my go to tools that get set up on all my machines are Libreoffice, FreeCAD, Inkscape and Openrocket. The graphical user interface for package installation is called Pacman and it's simple to install Libreoffice, FreeCAD and Inkscape directly there and all of them are nicely up to date with the latest stables from each of those projects, many thanks package managers! Moving into FreeCAD vers 0.20.2 my first port of call is to install the excellent <a href="https://wiki.freecad.org/Rocket_Workbench">rocket workbench</a> here I had a small problem. When iswitching to the rocket workbench it failed with a "libQt5Charts.so.5:cannot open shared object file", reading around the freecad error messages It was a missing dependency Qt5_charts. Sometimes, before diving into a terminal it's worth exploring the package manager GUI and sure enough searching Pacman found Qt5_charts and installed it readily. With a reboot of FreeCAD the rocket workbench is up and running perfectly. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSOsV2mDm2mOc2GGmbjGweSn7AtX6hKGckVHySbfb0lLVUbvRzQAbIP0hvTgHY7_4HZA_4pA3vFpLeRHlwmklgX7r9p2qftZRrYMbxBOf3rvP7z54LJtlahd5Cfd8F_T9p9qnyapbUvxSZLHvBzjkdi37eAPX5DFYXSQ1jfovIXqsPqHn5ywtoWJbs/s1600/rocketrywb.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="881" data-original-width="1600" height="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSOsV2mDm2mOc2GGmbjGweSn7AtX6hKGckVHySbfb0lLVUbvRzQAbIP0hvTgHY7_4HZA_4pA3vFpLeRHlwmklgX7r9p2qftZRrYMbxBOf3rvP7z54LJtlahd5Cfd8F_T9p9qnyapbUvxSZLHvBzjkdi37eAPX5DFYXSQ1jfovIXqsPqHn5ywtoWJbs/w640-h352/rocketrywb.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Inkscape installed perfectly well and I'm slowly adding and checking the range of extensions I use to drive various machines or draw or generate various geometries etc. So that left OpenRocket. A search of Pacman revealed no Openrocket, so just taking a punt, I opened a terminal and used the very handy: </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i>pamac search openrocket</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">which returned that indeed the latest Openrocket package (22.02-1) was available on the AUR (Arch User Repository) so then issuing a simple:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i>pamac build openrocket</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i><br /></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Installed the package. However, veteran OpenRocketeers may recall there is sometimes some shenanigans that manifest when the incorrect Java Runtime environment is being used by the system and Openrocket want's a particular one and indeed Openrocket wouldn't run. A quick search revealed the very useful "status" command so "archlinux-java status" showed originally that Java 17 and 19 were installed with 19 set as default. Open rocket wants 8 or 11 and so a package search led me to install Java 11 runtime and then we can us "sudo archlinux-java set-11-openjdk" to set the Java 11 runtime as the default. Then Openrocket is working flawlessly. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQLv0qhn0_Q7f-UDKx_l7yXeWfYKxZNsLzMsp1oCIoRUISWdnnk_dgD4JrVLcLME5WM6sNGq_Yd2zTjqqR__D8tnAh1itUrtJ9ga0HJY3FVCMZmoouWEvTKapunD2ZEZzhRGUG-6uJB5ylleXjeFFAA-woEGzutKoknObq39oXg6mrE9UyTYx3psYQ/s843/Screenshot_2023-03-15_14-59-53.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="481" data-original-width="843" height="366" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQLv0qhn0_Q7f-UDKx_l7yXeWfYKxZNsLzMsp1oCIoRUISWdnnk_dgD4JrVLcLME5WM6sNGq_Yd2zTjqqR__D8tnAh1itUrtJ9ga0HJY3FVCMZmoouWEvTKapunD2ZEZzhRGUG-6uJB5ylleXjeFFAA-woEGzutKoknObq39oXg6mrE9UyTYx3psYQ/w640-h366/Screenshot_2023-03-15_14-59-53.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div>So hey presto, we are all setup in a nice modern feeling distro that seems quite intuitive and seems consistent in the way things work. I look forward to setting up more tools and using it more fully over the coming weeks. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><p></p>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-52764911304255568412023-01-18T02:09:00.000-08:002023-01-18T02:09:02.783-08:00Pasting Table Mods, a Temporary Autonomous Workspace!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4KruftsjCbNvEsSp7XDgbnZSmPAj0meYPMfziOSqgp0UMmauprwsDBrzYxslpF5QXXcJlziPXf_SPAPFtAkZtg1wsHZX5tzbZyQh63LwlNw_r3Yiz59F35zEdCT7XoaoBUb_WYl2v1ac/w640-h640/1673953824020770-0.png" width="640" />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I've been working on lots of larger lightweight projects of late. You might<a href="https://twitter.com/concreted0g/status/1576609048668930049"> have seen the hot air balloons</a> I'm designing and building from large tissue paper panels but I'm also working on some larger cloth wing designs and more. I often don't have the length I require for the work on my shed workbench or regular bench in the house. So I went and bought a wallpaper pasting table. They are CHEAP! But with cheapness comes lightness and some lack of rigidity. However, for lightweight tissue paper or cloth work they are perfect in many ways and create a great Temporary Autonomous Workspace (been reading a lot of anarchic stuff lately and this name has stuck in my mind!)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">There's one problem for me though, they are built way too low! Even doing light work standing at one of these for half an hour causes my lower back to start to grumble, I needed to raise the table, but equally I needed the mod to not stop the table folding away. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHkompDMVPXQkdyOnUuZv2c3Pol-E-dRkDW2Y7I0wRxDmgo06BtcKSWf_AsX3_PUmr-kP2SLPQTTu4I0qGc3riAR3Qiet-tHuy1nfKklLZB3QI9XLIh8KIlRH2UIjNqmvyri3_qre128w/w640-h360/1673953820565432-1.png" width="640" />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So off to FreeCAD! (<a href="https://hackspace.raspberrypi.com/books/freecad">ICYMI here is a free to DL book I wrote on FreeCAD)</a> The solution is pretty simple, there's enough room to add an adaptor to the 20mm square-ish legs and still allow the legs to fold away inside the table. I quickly CAD'ed an adaptor which had a square hole for the original leg on one side and then had a circular hole to receive some 25mm diameter dowel I had knocking around in the shed. Once printed up in some PETG filament I epoxied the adaptors to the table side and then they live permanently attached and fold away with the legs. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I then chopped a few dowels to length to bring the table up to where I need it. The 3D printed adaptors are a press fit on the dowel side which means I can insert the leg extending dowels and turn the table onto it's feet without them falling out. In turn the dowels can sit inside the table when folded, I should probably create some kind of storage strap or mount to stop them clattering about inside the table, but it certainly does the job. Available widely for around £15-20 this is a really handy tool hack for me!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br /></div>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-73460482687109046002023-01-06T07:04:00.000-08:002023-01-06T07:04:13.440-08:00Nextool Vanguard; a £32 Multitool Review <p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU6M2qhWgZPslcuvt7lsCMIzbXQ4uulDuDMITqMqcvfXDWACXblP0bThty9rhE1pCEY1Reu5BZ0bdm-Ae75l_3ffCr0EItN9HGU_ddzD89o7mCJTfPkqH8ePR0_M60oEnpDCGFqXfGdH8ZR0BP2RDt3bM9gWEMm4QBoJewipK-CC-ZaQc-XGmvmPNj/s4000/IMG_20230105_154116.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2248" data-original-width="4000" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU6M2qhWgZPslcuvt7lsCMIzbXQ4uulDuDMITqMqcvfXDWACXblP0bThty9rhE1pCEY1Reu5BZ0bdm-Ae75l_3ffCr0EItN9HGU_ddzD89o7mCJTfPkqH8ePR0_M60oEnpDCGFqXfGdH8ZR0BP2RDt3bM9gWEMm4QBoJewipK-CC-ZaQc-XGmvmPNj/w640-h360/IMG_20230105_154116.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>A while back in <a href="https://hackspace.raspberrypi.com/issues/58">issue 58 of Hackspace magazine</a> I reviewed a small folding scalpel the "3 Coil crane" and it's a fabulous tiny tool. I ordered that scalpel from a company I've used a fair bit over the years, <a href="https://heinnie.com/">Heinnie Haynes</a>, who are based down in South Wales. Heinnie sell lots of outdoor equipment, clothing, shelters, packs etc, but they specialise in bladed tools and have a huge range including multitools, bushcraft knives and more. </p><p></p><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/AvPPmhYUeJw" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe></div>
<p></p><p>I sent them the link to the Hackspace article and they told me to mention anything I saw that I thought might be good for a review, that might be of interest to makers. Recently they've started stocking some interesting multi tools that sit at the budget end of their multi tool offers. The Nextool range is pretty affordable and one in particular stood out, <a href="https://heinnie.com/nextool-vanguard-multifunctional-wrench/">the Nextool Vanguard </a>as it has a built in adjustable spanner. I wanted to take a look and Heinnie were kind enough to send one out to me. It's been in circulation for a few duties over the last couple of weeks and I've put together this little video review. Hope you enjoy the video and do check out Heinnie Haynes, they've always given great service over the years and I'd genuinely recommend them, </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-57726826381538256992022-12-31T02:57:00.004-08:002022-12-31T02:58:33.456-08:002022 project favourites roundup, and here's to 2023!<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCFIIIjCQ4PI3OHKuvN94XuKjmpAoz6Ue4VdrbdZ9egSx5VWJU4JAkqiC3tkginavjnziMSo3j45DY2QkrdJyWF_UPlfU6lck187XQrXgA7xyYDMyu3pPl7kKVZBlsYIFiLapprIaJkEMrV4DDFnC2SWa3kJr7OuobJ0XTYdW0MF1dbG5EyH_ot1uQ/s615/freecadbook.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="505" data-original-width="615" height="526" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCFIIIjCQ4PI3OHKuvN94XuKjmpAoz6Ue4VdrbdZ9egSx5VWJU4JAkqiC3tkginavjnziMSo3j45DY2QkrdJyWF_UPlfU6lck187XQrXgA7xyYDMyu3pPl7kKVZBlsYIFiLapprIaJkEMrV4DDFnC2SWa3kJr7OuobJ0XTYdW0MF1dbG5EyH_ot1uQ/w640-h526/freecadbook.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>I don't think I've ever done a "round up" post before but it's new years eve and I have a cold so thought I might take the opportunity! 2022 has been a fab year in which I've had chance to work on lots of interesting projects. First mention is for my free to download FreeCAD book "<a href="https://hackspace.raspberrypi.com/books/freecad">FreeCAD for Makers</a>" which was released this year, has been downloaded many many thousands of times and has been met with great appreciation and enthusiasm. I'm currently amassing projects for another book which I hope to make some progress on in 2023. It's got the tentative working title of "Concretedog's Flight Lab"! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLgvn0D044C-BWnuoqwFPcuBChMxeTo392T1ddxkZuWa-ZtAnvbBCeFgD34WNbWRsRPVq5ntvcAcdHb6-ZOl6S6BmdCWNMlOle0tAicll8LvdPAv9QwQqq9d5c0vG0KTHnGJ7s8hQAHqLKtnHWd8zJDjYa7QaXgD20vSGZddKzP9gcFr17OhbRtkA9/s1446/swing_wing_in_hackspace.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1300" data-original-width="1446" height="576" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLgvn0D044C-BWnuoqwFPcuBChMxeTo392T1ddxkZuWa-ZtAnvbBCeFgD34WNbWRsRPVq5ntvcAcdHb6-ZOl6S6BmdCWNMlOle0tAicll8LvdPAv9QwQqq9d5c0vG0KTHnGJ7s8hQAHqLKtnHWd8zJDjYa7QaXgD20vSGZddKzP9gcFr17OhbRtkA9/w640-h576/swing_wing_in_hackspace.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Another project I enjoyed working on was the "EXO-S Experimental swing wing glider". Basically a rocket propelled transformer that moves from a rocket shape to an unfurled glider at apogee rather than releasing a parachute. It was fun to work on the mechanisms and I plan not only to revisit and revise the swing wing glider concept for better performance in 2023 but I also have plans for other folding and deployed air vehicles... stay tuned! I put together a short video on the swing wing glider over <a href="https://youtu.be/evAllUUz0dU">on my youtube channel.</a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvzNwc8lu9B-JMPEF57Zzxi7qLfeM5B-VqP2nQKKb16IFD3d0MZqglSmuwya3jsQwLSXccYhicrsf-Yd82LHxf8CbxNzv5WyjpIYYAXKCOhYZdSmb8SxGLEBe8zenNeQYtbcQb4h-2NHCevsrAQ22Ub8IeGPFHW6uzKYUZUnAqWj_LBM242nYOanK7/s4000/IMG_20220716_144351.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvzNwc8lu9B-JMPEF57Zzxi7qLfeM5B-VqP2nQKKb16IFD3d0MZqglSmuwya3jsQwLSXccYhicrsf-Yd82LHxf8CbxNzv5WyjpIYYAXKCOhYZdSmb8SxGLEBe8zenNeQYtbcQb4h-2NHCevsrAQ22Ub8IeGPFHW6uzKYUZUnAqWj_LBM242nYOanK7/w640-h480/IMG_20220716_144351.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>There's stacks of other flying projects that happened in 2022, including the Flat Pack rockets I designed, and there are a few that haven't yet appeared in print, at the risk of 2023 spoilers there's some interesting ones coming up including compressed air rocketry, supercapacitor free flight planes and an interesting take on paper aeroplanes! Keep an eye out on future issues!<p style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wgA92SjcO5Y" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe>
<br /></p><p>In some ways my favourite flying project has been the tissue paper hot air balloon designs. These are great fun and super cheap to make. I released 3 designs alongside the Hackspace Magazine article on them and there is also a small video with some test flight footage and some instruction on assembly above. I've just built a much larger design which I am hoping to test fly very soon and I have some plans to hopefully fly these at some maker events in 2023 and a cunning plan for a safe, no fire (hopefully!) and no litter way of flying these outdoors. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3t0hslXX10sEdm36bsyiF1A4SW6qmlMoBF9PUYLMGlobwnSgQciTGCwz63fFFMHNmFX5oZQ8NEmbGaq-WeIUJaYsvla02y_mh6EihOUpqeOZwg_l8ILJyy5mypr4IGzQ4KIIP_9MsuyQ_rpAT2lIDI-WMPP0TWV7Yg_8-is02-jnoWvrst87od_pg/s786/watchmaking_HS.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="669" data-original-width="786" height="544" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3t0hslXX10sEdm36bsyiF1A4SW6qmlMoBF9PUYLMGlobwnSgQciTGCwz63fFFMHNmFX5oZQ8NEmbGaq-WeIUJaYsvla02y_mh6EihOUpqeOZwg_l8ILJyy5mypr4IGzQ4KIIP_9MsuyQ_rpAT2lIDI-WMPP0TWV7Yg_8-is02-jnoWvrst87od_pg/w640-h544/watchmaking_HS.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Finally, I couldn't do a round up of 2022 without mentioning the watch assembly and repair projects I've undertaken this year. The visible tip of this iceberg is the watch I assembled around an NH35a movement for Hackspace Magazine, but I've also carried out numerous other builds and repairs and generally upped my game in this area. I know have a couple of mechanical watches I've built in regular circulation on my wrist! There's been a lovely reaction to these projects and it's been great to see a few followers on social media get involved in watch fettling! If you are interested in downloading and reading any of my projects in Hackspace Magazine<a href="https://concretedog.blogspot.com/2019/05/hackspace-magazine-keeping-track-of-my.html"> I tend to keep this post up to date </a>with what I have in each issue with links.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">There's LOADS more I could cram in but those have been the highlights maker project wise. I'm really looking forward to 2023 and if any of this peaks your interest do feel free to follow along! I'm posting a lot on Mastodon these days and you can follow there at <a href="http://@concretedog@mastodon.social">@concretedog@mastodon.social</a> . I'd love it if you gave me a follow on my <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCLBiP3ffpvJrtlZZqu7d0Rw">Youtube Channel</a> which I'm planning to use more in 2023 and you can still find me on twitter but it's a bit bonkers on there these days to say the least! However you connect I'd love to hear comments and suggestions on any of my projects and I thank you for your interest! I wish you and yours a happy and safe 2023, full of whatever projects may take your fancy! Jo. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-3307586473259534402022-11-11T07:52:00.004-08:002022-11-11T14:19:46.194-08:00Multiple Projects, the Makerspace of the Mind!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTI9UgOFv_njRN8R30b4xBHXvsu_9aphgiDawXnqgXhe8iiXnZk2CPUVQYSIARZ7vM2yMkptqYUspPUSyqfbsil0_qLByBPc8r-8P3n7BVOrc7iFQtrm9kltSS-owl57hxeno1aK8t5DvIW9uwD3wCJJdnts350IWQBSOedeoLeHv_Io98HlaLDHfe/s600/button_spacer.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTI9UgOFv_njRN8R30b4xBHXvsu_9aphgiDawXnqgXhe8iiXnZk2CPUVQYSIARZ7vM2yMkptqYUspPUSyqfbsil0_qLByBPc8r-8P3n7BVOrc7iFQtrm9kltSS-owl57hxeno1aK8t5DvIW9uwD3wCJJdnts350IWQBSOedeoLeHv_Io98HlaLDHfe/w640-h640/button_spacer.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div>Until pretty recently North Wales didn't really have any Makerspaces, Fablabs, Hackspaces or whatever you might want to call some kind of creative communal workshop. Apart from travelling out to events it's probably still fair to say most of my maker experience has been on my own. This isn't a cry for help or a complaint but it is interesting sometimes to reflect on how that can impact on you as a maker. <div><br /></div><div>For me one of the essences of Maker culture is the cross pollination of ideas and techniques from one person to another. When we opened the <a href="https://ffiwsporthmadog.site/home">first Ffiws makerspace</a>, pre Covid I ran a regular evening as "maker night" where anyone could attend without booking and perhaps play with a machine or bring in a project to tinker with on the desks in company. Once we got up to maybe 8-12 people rocking up you instantly start to get those fabulous moments where some aspect of somebodies work is intriguing, inspiring or just plain old useful to someone else. Often this is conceptual, the "oooh" of someone seeing a lasercut living hinge for the first time or someone seeing a vinyl cutter cutting an unexpected material. Often it's direct, "wow that's cool, show me how that works". Sometimes it's permissive "OK watching you do CAD modelling makes me think it might not be impossible". Another area that's ripe for creating new connections is discovering a new tool in someone else's project. So how do you get all these lovely benefits when you are largely on your own? </div><div><br /></div><div>Well, in this youtube/peertube/vimeo era of loads of video content, this works for many. For some though its more a consumable rather than actual inspiration or knowledge growth if its an entirely passive activity. For example, I often binge woodworking videos but I suck at woodwork really, I watch them as I find them satisfying and often very soporific and chilled to watch, but I'm not actively applying what I am seeing to my ongoing projects nor am I actually practising the observed skills that then might have created a moment of cross pollination.</div><div><br /></div><div>For me I've come to the conclusion that I need to prompt myself to work on projects in new areas, be it new materials or new techniques. Having a less comfortable project area pushes me to explore new knowledge and skills and it's often within this process that the moments of cross pollination occur. </div><div><br /></div><div>As a really tangible example, recently I had one of these moments that linked sewing and airplane design and construction! I only really sew due to making parachutes for rocketry, but that has led me to actively look at lots of sewing content and techniques and has led to me stitching up a few wider than rocketry type projects. I was recently discussing a large airplane/drone construction project with a maker and they were lamenting not having a rivet spacer tool as they were too expensive as aerospace tools often are. I didn't really know what one was and enquired. It's a kind of expanding rack that allows you to fill any space with evenly spaced marks for rivets. It also often gets used for other tasks, for example it can be used to mark equidistant points for wing ribs when making a smaller aircraft or drone. On hearing these tools can be £100 plus and having looked them up online, CROSS POLLINATION, they are astonishingly similar to button hole spacers used to mark button hole locations on garments and these cost perhaps £10 to £20 pounds!</div><div><br /></div><div>So whats the point of this ramble. Well, it's a reminder to perhaps force yourself to pick up a project in a totally unrelated area than which you have worked before. Whilst it might not be a lifelong area you explore, the cross pollination benefits are often worth the trial!</div>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-42242850237438660722022-10-26T02:39:00.000-07:002022-10-26T02:39:24.833-07:00Watchmodding in Hackspace Magazine, Bonus content!<div style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; line-height: 1px; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-07e9aa67-7fff-30c0-3b88-70a415d7617d"><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7lWQwnjDUt65K3u0MW7orbSH2j2jZ9GKnxSq9dhU7dNQQnXnO0O6SP8VHeJd7ah8tBuBL_s1a8Wag1Fyy2W-2PZTteA2YF4lb8Kn3RAQ19A1enDo71Ngn32lfYDRRrLHsu_TOpWadASvFcemjXuYJtmfuT_oPcV-0jkl3eeUnCnloHyoFlYLG0ffF/s2256/spare_watch_main.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1526" data-original-width="2256" height="432" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7lWQwnjDUt65K3u0MW7orbSH2j2jZ9GKnxSq9dhU7dNQQnXnO0O6SP8VHeJd7ah8tBuBL_s1a8Wag1Fyy2W-2PZTteA2YF4lb8Kn3RAQ19A1enDo71Ngn32lfYDRRrLHsu_TOpWadASvFcemjXuYJtmfuT_oPcV-0jkl3eeUnCnloHyoFlYLG0ffF/w640-h432/spare_watch_main.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /></span><p></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In <a href="https://hackspace.raspberrypi.com/issues/60">issue 60 of Hackspace magazine</a> I wrote a piece about building a mechanical dive watch from a collection of components it's a great hobby and you can build a pretty expensive watch for a lot less than buying one! Writing the piece I wanted originally to talk about some repair tasks I'd undertaken and my route into watch assembly and modding but I was going to be way over wordcount! So I've decided to add that section here as a blogpost. Below is the text as written as an opening for the article. </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: center;"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVTKGMIO3X4sf-wDVJxOnnqjbu62u9GXKz_XzPEr6kezG3TGYJUEsWAStyBCMOh2dLrmqYdAPz3NFqdJm953T8rD9bYMkZ-y315HDFZH-Bz-IPRIWouGTzILpJh0V_NoPgwSrCkiZqnPK3Gt-xLUbLb15Qx7mLgma5cimKRcoBDl05KWUKYT49H2rL/s4000/IMG_20220611_200116.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVTKGMIO3X4sf-wDVJxOnnqjbu62u9GXKz_XzPEr6kezG3TGYJUEsWAStyBCMOh2dLrmqYdAPz3NFqdJm953T8rD9bYMkZ-y315HDFZH-Bz-IPRIWouGTzILpJh0V_NoPgwSrCkiZqnPK3Gt-xLUbLb15Qx7mLgma5cimKRcoBDl05KWUKYT49H2rL/w640-h480/IMG_20220611_200116.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span><p></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Making a watch has been on my list of “things I’d like to have a go at” for a long time but ultimately it was the repair of another watch that led me down the rabbit hole of completing a make a watch project.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The repair in question was for an old 1990’s Gul brand watch which I’d had since new. Not a particularly good or expensive watch but well worn and had served me well. I’d managed to slip and catch it on a stone wall and had chipped the watch glass, or crystal as they are more commonly known and rather than a scratch it had some cracks that made it difficult to read the time. I already had the tools to open the watch which I’d picked up years ago and ever since had replaced batteries in quartz movement watches as a matter of course. These tools were bought as a very budget set and included 2 really useful tools, an adjustable 3 pronged watch case opener which can be thought of as an adjustable wrench for screw on case backs and a handheld dust blower, perfect for removing pesky flecks and spots of dust.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgboHPUL2CoRxfhSFEhoIHcpOUiAEA5KIJB9nNM--Eitwte-NXU0Ulx7SXX7xs5NmQxzJXR_3hF0-ROps3PMEQczhlhwSgrFKsEEyerahOtyIieDZBG9jxaOOcOU-jIaABL-HsxmxZyW9kBMauq69r1cqg3vkCGlmGkbDSkz6ZXP5i0k22UXSOn9OhL/s4000/IMG_20220611_200451.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: medium; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; white-space: normal;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgboHPUL2CoRxfhSFEhoIHcpOUiAEA5KIJB9nNM--Eitwte-NXU0Ulx7SXX7xs5NmQxzJXR_3hF0-ROps3PMEQczhlhwSgrFKsEEyerahOtyIieDZBG9jxaOOcOU-jIaABL-HsxmxZyW9kBMauq69r1cqg3vkCGlmGkbDSkz6ZXP5i0k22UXSOn9OhL/w640-h480/IMG_20220611_200451.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Removing and replacing the crystal requires a few more bits of knowledge and indeed some tools so I began investigating how to achieve this. The first obvious step is to, like when changing a battery is to take the back off the case. Some watches have press fit case backs often with a small lip where you can insert some kind of prying tool or “spudger” whilst commercial spudgers are cheap and available you might improvise with a fine flat tipped screwdriver or a firm thin guitarists plectrum is often useful. For my gull watch it has a screw down case back so I adjusted the three jaws of the case opener to fit into the indents on the case, carefully placed it on the case back and unscrewed the case.</span></p><br /><br /><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">With the back of the case removed you now need to remove the “Movement” which is all the gubbins that run the watch from inside the case. Whether a watch is mechanical (a wind up watch ) automatic (a mechanical watch that also self winds) or a quartz watch (runs from a battery) you need to somehow remove the crown and stem from the movement before it can be lifted out of the case. Each different movement will be slightly different, some have a lever you depress, some have a hole you insert a thin tipped tool into and the location of these points will be different. A good starting point once you have the case back off is to get a magnifying loupe or equivalent and try and identify the make and model of the movement which will usually be engraved somewhere visible. My Gul watch has a cheap but perfectly good “Miyota” quartz movement and with a quick online search I found an image of which hole I needed to press a thin pin type tool into to release the stem and crown. With the stem and crown removed the movement is now free to be lifted from the case. Although not every watch has one many watches have a case ring which is a plastic or metal ring which fills any gap between the watch case and the internal movement, sometimes these are attached to the movement but sometimes they are separate so take good note and maybe a picture on your phone before you remove the movement so you can tell where everything aligns.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Be very careful with a removed watch movement, if, as in this case, we are disassembling a complete watch the hands of the watch are very fragile and you definitely shouldn't ever place the movement down on its hands. Similarly later when we are working with a movement before the hands are fitted the tiny shafts the hands fit too are incredible easy to damage so be very gentle!</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEMy969F8PZo0aSZEooyfyyeCeRIxHPaBiWEtM-hzLSC5lOHqSL75r3C3qVv63DVNhsEnT49hqlqcudJaaJx5ab9UZnpIrV8xDy3tPjvklgwQoPts6X4L8j7Ii_yKOIJ55eFUYAtubbnom0MfftpZaN7JNexTQJwEbGmstnK6C2gBH-S0HP8RBOe-a/s4000/IMG_20220617_194453.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: medium; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; white-space: normal;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEMy969F8PZo0aSZEooyfyyeCeRIxHPaBiWEtM-hzLSC5lOHqSL75r3C3qVv63DVNhsEnT49hqlqcudJaaJx5ab9UZnpIrV8xDy3tPjvklgwQoPts6X4L8j7Ii_yKOIJ55eFUYAtubbnom0MfftpZaN7JNexTQJwEbGmstnK6C2gBH-S0HP8RBOe-a/w640-h480/IMG_20220617_194453.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: center;"><br /></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxRtBeJUNs5QMlukHTVSZoUEywDoqkgMn2jN2aWDm_NCKZZ5TlCH4Wtu1ez1On85zAPXfmzGicvJ8PB19EDUfc99WpNN8K3GIK-V5b-XTKZ8E4rnBwc5Hx17Wfc8Ll-Zl1Zuvr-cSGhDn9DjcXntj_w34ilb_6iAEW02Z7xj34MBazZf6vy01eZooJ/s4000/IMG_20220617_194446.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxRtBeJUNs5QMlukHTVSZoUEywDoqkgMn2jN2aWDm_NCKZZ5TlCH4Wtu1ez1On85zAPXfmzGicvJ8PB19EDUfc99WpNN8K3GIK-V5b-XTKZ8E4rnBwc5Hx17Wfc8Ll-Zl1Zuvr-cSGhDn9DjcXntj_w34ilb_6iAEW02Z7xj34MBazZf6vy01eZooJ/w640-h480/IMG_20220617_194446.jpg" width="640" /></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The disassembly of a watch as we have done so far is a really useful experience when it comes to building a watch later. However when assembling a watch from components a watch case will usually have a crystal fitted so the rest of the Gul watch repair is perhaps less relevant but it’s a really common repair task. To replace the crystal we need a special tool, a crystal press, which allows us to support a variety watch case and the crystal sizes to remove or replace the crystal without damaging either component. They can be found quite cheaply for around £20 online, and although I am sure some vintage high end Swiss maker presses are infinitely better, a cheap one will work! To remove the cracked crystal we need to find a pair of the replaceable dies that are sized correctly. For removal we would place the watch case upside down so the crystal is towards the lower die. The lower die should touch and support the watch case but not touch the crystal so the crystal can be pushed into the bowl section of that die. The upper die should fit inside the back of the case and only touch the crystal, it’s good practice to find the die that covers as much of the crystal without touching the case as then you theoretically need to apply less force over the larger area to remove the crystal. With the two dies in place its a simple squeeze of the press to pop out the crystal. If you now look inside the case where the crystal was sat you might have a small seal/gasket, check that that gasket looks OK and be careful not to touch or move it unless you really need too. You next need to identify the diameter of the crystal to be able to order a replacement. For this a set of vernier callipers, digital or analogue, should be accurate enough. Most watches are metric and crystals are sized to 1/10th of a millimetre, so for example its possible that a 24.5mm crystal wont be tight enough if the watch it fitted with a 24.6mm one. Measure the diameter at least three times to make sure you are certain! Crystals also come in a variety of geometries, domes that can be flat one side and domed the other, hollow domes or flat both sides and more. When you are looking online most traders show pictures which you can compare to your damaged removed crystal.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg89J8XB217_gDj4YAgkW85w_ukwNtXfLYiu5GPRIxuCwBfrx2TgxsqIM2O7yWR_Q3cxkmyDQp6Gu7CkKBxhJcESOvlzBlpvLS0cp98IgcfXl8cg8DUfsT5rsE8OfB5v4cJzFEDOPhfNCOGGGB9U6XYnpxsHyjQvZCAAvdOAfNaiLbR-9FhCHvrC-uI/s4000/IMG_20220617_202451.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: medium; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; white-space: normal;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg89J8XB217_gDj4YAgkW85w_ukwNtXfLYiu5GPRIxuCwBfrx2TgxsqIM2O7yWR_Q3cxkmyDQp6Gu7CkKBxhJcESOvlzBlpvLS0cp98IgcfXl8cg8DUfsT5rsE8OfB5v4cJzFEDOPhfNCOGGGB9U6XYnpxsHyjQvZCAAvdOAfNaiLbR-9FhCHvrC-uI/w640-h480/IMG_20220617_202451.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Replacing the crystal is similar to removal. You now place the watch case on the lower die facing upwards, the lower die should now be a size that supports the case and you should be able to find one that will support the case and that locks the case into position so it cant slide sideways. The upper die should be one that will push the crystal into place and touches as much of the crystal as possible to again reduce the amount of pressure you need. Triple check everything is aligned and that everything is clean and squeeze the press to fit the crystal. Then admire your work, it’s incredibly satisfying!</span></p><div><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div></div>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-32252177437476868932022-10-19T05:55:00.001-07:002022-10-19T05:55:53.557-07:00My FreeCAD book! Response is good!<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxOnWWocZVAcgOhnFXhZYB6-QqZ_Skv2mJz7EActn064kvnYHLAnb5X6rnpQwSw-exCOfsz5Bg2yWPDjdWIHwc9d0WNJiUQaL87PpYK9eapjv7PpgeWqJLzyRpcKuJ4ADjR2BhRnqEAROKKhrQNGowb3pDem4QlJ-W74CyylSxkhf-B7EAPzGbCPn0/s1230/FreeCAD_For_Makers_Cover.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1230" data-original-width="934" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxOnWWocZVAcgOhnFXhZYB6-QqZ_Skv2mJz7EActn064kvnYHLAnb5X6rnpQwSw-exCOfsz5Bg2yWPDjdWIHwc9d0WNJiUQaL87PpYK9eapjv7PpgeWqJLzyRpcKuJ4ADjR2BhRnqEAROKKhrQNGowb3pDem4QlJ-W74CyylSxkhf-B7EAPzGbCPn0/w486-h640/FreeCAD_For_Makers_Cover.png" width="486" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I probably should have blogged on this earlier but better late than never! Recently my free to download book "<a href="https://hackspace.raspberrypi.com/books/freecad">FreeCAD for Makers</a>" has been released on the <a href="https://store.rpipress.cc/">Raspberry Pi Press</a>. It's an edited together version of 16 tutorials I wrote for <a href="https://hackspace.raspberrypi.com/">Hackspace magazine</a>. I'm extremely pleased with the book, it's written so that if you learn the first two sections you then are equipped with enough knowledge to jump to any other section in the book to explore more advanced and niche uses of parts of the wonderful opensource FreeCAD. It's suitable for absolute beginners in computer aided design (CAD) and covers a real range of CAD uses and approaches. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The reaction has been great. I'm super proud to have a foreword by Yorik in there who is a legendary contributor and developer of the FreeCAD project and I'm really pleased that the established FreeCAD community approve and have been sharing it widely. Apparently it had over 8000 downloads in the first few days of release. I <a href="https://twitter.com/concreted0g/status/1570827704110546946">tweeted about the book release</a> and I think it's the closest I've ever had to a "viral" tweet as it's had well over 1000 likes and over 400 retweets! I'm planning to get back to doing some more <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCLBiP3ffpvJrtlZZqu7d0Rw">FreeCAD videos over on my Youtube channel</a> soon but if you are interested in learning the fantastic FreeCAD then do grab a copy of my book to get you started.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAd08Tprw1cFQtZ-f8ms8vIPJwgIjoPuBIh606SeYC1KDVBVezLETLR9YPkPGjTtqA6OFZg12OnkDmuCD9RRD4YCkvgAGWd8373Hq3_FLtukVl7Hkco_hBBWThUhv7Iy7CSik4JjtYjnx8DuZ-KR2kp7wpflPVJlA_ZXf5wemShWgw2RwjhAqnGhn3/s1288/pinned_tweet.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1288" data-original-width="976" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAd08Tprw1cFQtZ-f8ms8vIPJwgIjoPuBIh606SeYC1KDVBVezLETLR9YPkPGjTtqA6OFZg12OnkDmuCD9RRD4YCkvgAGWd8373Hq3_FLtukVl7Hkco_hBBWThUhv7Iy7CSik4JjtYjnx8DuZ-KR2kp7wpflPVJlA_ZXf5wemShWgw2RwjhAqnGhn3/w484-h640/pinned_tweet.png" width="484" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p></p>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-26858834001219639192022-10-09T09:15:00.000-07:002022-10-09T09:15:11.260-07:00Organiser Prototype<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbroAgHlVYs62h0F6jlXEkWB3eBaTVexEkrgaYyP5r71aUweVYNP05Th59-6aXEg3GFisFXcK4CRYoQLiSjxfWD9dw7uT58J8Vo4cGnVTtU_H9l9Tq3LqpIk0bHoxixogg4iffO-2deWk/s1600/1665330024279410-0.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">
<img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbroAgHlVYs62h0F6jlXEkWB3eBaTVexEkrgaYyP5r71aUweVYNP05Th59-6aXEg3GFisFXcK4CRYoQLiSjxfWD9dw7uT58J8Vo4cGnVTtU_H9l9Tq3LqpIk0bHoxixogg4iffO-2deWk/w640-h360/1665330024279410-0.png" width="640" />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The other day we were in an outdoor equipment shop and there was an organiser idea for use in a tent, or elsewhere that caught our eye as an interesting and useful idea. It was under £20 but it struck me that I had everything to make the device between my sewing stuff, accumulated junk and the 3D printer. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Today I knocked up this first short prototype. A double length of 12mm wide webbing (left over from a parachute prototype) was stitched by hand with loops either end and the middle with a series of slack looped sections. These slack loops allow you to use a variety of clips and carabiners to attach all kinds of items to the system. We do have a fair few commercial keyring type around but it was fun to print a few different carabiners and mitton hook designs found online as well as CAD'ing a few designs of my own. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7f0PXSerwFcd7KAIQlaSlAL2JuNaxdqEuXXcCK4qDysBTe6h29rsXGRROlYtZvFo6qsy3ahuXsak8OGuhyphenhyphenwq5qVrb5WpvJ80YulNLHYAfl9lz8Cvde2h1dtbNuW5Apbebij7b73Ur2iw/s1600/1665330005277901-1.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">
<img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7f0PXSerwFcd7KAIQlaSlAL2JuNaxdqEuXXcCK4qDysBTe6h29rsXGRROlYtZvFo6qsy3ahuXsak8OGuhyphenhyphenwq5qVrb5WpvJ80YulNLHYAfl9lz8Cvde2h1dtbNuW5Apbebij7b73Ur2iw/w640-h360/1665330005277901-1.png" width="640" />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The original product has a pair of flexible pipe cleaner-esque sections on the end which you can twist around an object as a connector. Instead I decided to use a couple of old shock cord toggles combined with a small length of paracord. You can place a loop over the toggle and then pull it tight and the toggle locks the loop. It can create a surprisingly tight yet easily removable temporary fixture and works extremely well. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">All in all it works very well and I already have an order to make one suitable for our large family tent. The next ones I'll knock up on the sewing machine for neatness and strength and I also plan to create a couple of small hanging stuff bags for items that are less easy to hang. I might even make one for the shed! </div>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-78650743951191792882022-09-19T07:45:00.001-07:002022-09-19T07:50:03.166-07:00Unconscious making! - Useful note board/ Index card holder!<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJe8t6sIS5kKCGiz1Gy-Zgc6QzNKOaq6Bs2QcninYtre9wjNkG_8R-F0CW_-yaDTH9fGkwbS4bXFh-QAlJ1ouHutkcJ3vkF_kE6Dd9Su2J6cTHgs_OU1UUEV3aFTwrLfplexDq9z7DoEc38ZqDfiVU5Co_8bXuqbrnv56ZQD2y2epe7qjLOj6XnMGR/s4000/IMG_20220729_202951.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJe8t6sIS5kKCGiz1Gy-Zgc6QzNKOaq6Bs2QcninYtre9wjNkG_8R-F0CW_-yaDTH9fGkwbS4bXFh-QAlJ1ouHutkcJ3vkF_kE6Dd9Su2J6cTHgs_OU1UUEV3aFTwrLfplexDq9z7DoEc38ZqDfiVU5Co_8bXuqbrnv56ZQD2y2epe7qjLOj6XnMGR/w640-h480/IMG_20220729_202951.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>Someone IRL made comment on this the other week as I pulled it out of my bag and it was noteworthy to me only because I hadn't considered that I'd made this object, even though I had! People may or may not know that I always, ALWAYS, have index cards on me! I've been a fan since the <a href="https://www.43folders.com/topics/index-cards">43 folders Hipster PDA idea's</a> were floating around but also, I used to pride myself as being able to create some kind of workshop activity at any moment, so long as I had some index cards and a pen. </p><p>Aside from workshop materials, index cards are in constant use for note taking, but they are also cheap enough that they often are pressed into use as a place to dump some glue, or to cut and craft a quick card prototype. The problem they do suffer from though is they get pretty scruffy when a stack is just held in your pocket. So, I often have them binder clipped together and they often in turn get binder clipped to a board. I have a few boards knocking around and they often become focused on notes for one project. </p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhssYlQqXLzc_wsx7kHgJf2jI2PYpG7WgkkrF1Wen3RheIOvb0rSm13Jd6eF_f8N9pzIPsTBoL4wWlcTaKjaZgWHaUaxQSra59H4XfP9C0d6rvNUL2X98ExM_uj57oDx6sRmf9JTTvDsGYXOZqpQT_zCq1L1qMHVmLgPowgyM37kdclWiqI--HRabR4/s4000/IMG_20220729_202945.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhssYlQqXLzc_wsx7kHgJf2jI2PYpG7WgkkrF1Wen3RheIOvb0rSm13Jd6eF_f8N9pzIPsTBoL4wWlcTaKjaZgWHaUaxQSra59H4XfP9C0d6rvNUL2X98ExM_uj57oDx6sRmf9JTTvDsGYXOZqpQT_zCq1L1qMHVmLgPowgyM37kdclWiqI--HRabR4/w640-h480/IMG_20220729_202945.jpg" width="640" /></a></p><p>Anyway... this board that caught someones eye... well. I'm pretty sure it started off as a failed lasercut base for a little lollipop stick crane I made for a Hackspace magazine article and, as it was around the right size, it got pulled from the pile and some index cards added. It then started getting used for notes for a rocket related project and the rather overkill kevlar cord was added to hang the board up in the shed, the kevlar being an offcut from the rocket project. The decoration was an experiment I wanted to see how well my diode laser CNC rig would remove paint for an interesting engraving effect so I quickly slapped paint on the board as it was to hand near the laser rig! Laser cutters produce lots of bits and bobs of off cuts and I have absolutely no recollection of why I glued a small yellow piece of acrylic into one of the holes, I imagine it was just because I was fiddling around and realised it fit. The circular piece of wood is another laser off cut, I was working on *something* I can't remember but it had a lot of small screws, the bench I was using was scaffolding planks and there was a high chance a screw would disappear in a crack... so I glued a scrap ring onto this board and had a safe place to put small screws. Similarly I was working in the shed and was repeatedly using a small Allen key which I kept misplacing, the project also involved some tiny neodymium magnets and I had spares so I drilled a small hole in the board and glued one in. Later I ran a workshop on NFC stickers and how to get them to do stuff when scanned and a spare sticker ended up on there. I would love to tell you this links to the rocket projects files/repository but it probably doesn't, I should really add my phone number or an "if found return too" note on it.</p><p>So there we are. It's a thing that is definitely made, and probably made in my favourite way, in a responsive, tinkering, flaneurial spirit!</p>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-23411010979250990222022-08-19T12:32:00.000-07:002022-08-19T12:32:06.199-07:003D Printing Lightweight Nosecones - Vase Mode Approaches. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIuYXBg6hl4Psin_L7nwj-SrEfMi1oLuhqyBKpz9ke8ploH73s36BLZqSxJRX7CbA4Dvn9d_H3siSF1OfV8h_n37gtYV5-mo9EPYbroYsQTA0kta5V5FlSMcl-2DOfJY-F0EvpMIFcDjY/s1600/1660935349450728-4.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIuYXBg6hl4Psin_L7nwj-SrEfMi1oLuhqyBKpz9ke8ploH73s36BLZqSxJRX7CbA4Dvn9d_H3siSF1OfV8h_n37gtYV5-mo9EPYbroYsQTA0kta5V5FlSMcl-2DOfJY-F0EvpMIFcDjY/w640-h480/1660935349450728-4.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I've been looking at FAI style rocketry building a fair bit recently and doing some explorations. I'm not aiming to compete and my motivation is more that I want a cheap and light rocket with lots of internal volume for a weird deployable idea I have, more on that another time. The rocket above is a cardstock rocket which is bulkhead/centring ring free and pretty lightweight. When it came to the nosecone I wanted to keep it pretty short and stubby and in keeping with the FAI look. But I also wanted to keep it light. If you want to go really light with 3D printing then "vase mode", where you have a single perimeter printed in a continually raising Z axis coil (rather than a layer then a Z lift) is a great approach. However, a problem with vase mode is what happens when you get to flatter top areas that are over 45 degrees from vertical, essentially the vase approach fails as it can't print the geometry. Below is probably the best I could get it.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbu15SWcDFbM0Z66mYRGsBWUP3IOMtQ9olblHzgTty7iW_7DGFLeM194p5cYW4hKZ3cI3rJSZ3yqFrToQe1Q01oAaPEHlFMqpvB4VvACOvLerRmPsa6axio6pX5Eo3wrtUSCNp1NFsb3o/s1600/1660935353315622-3.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbu15SWcDFbM0Z66mYRGsBWUP3IOMtQ9olblHzgTty7iW_7DGFLeM194p5cYW4hKZ3cI3rJSZ3yqFrToQe1Q01oAaPEHlFMqpvB4VvACOvLerRmPsa6axio6pX5Eo3wrtUSCNp1NFsb3o/w480-h640/1660935353315622-3.png" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So the workaround, I redesigned the CAD model of the nosecone into 2 sections, one section that would vase print well but with the tip removed and printed separately in a standard print approach with a small amount of infill. Below you can see the vase mode print complete with the tiny shoulder section (at the top) which steps in 0.3mm which is the thickness of the cardstock body tube. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Below you can see the vase mode section and then the standard print mode tip. Printed in PETG and ready for assembly with a spot of superglue. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I'm pretty pleased with the approach, the rocket I'm building is slightly larger than the FAI style 40mm diameter body tube as I used some PVC pipe and a 3D printed section as a mandrel for the body tube and transition. Some research indicates that for 40mm FAI rockets the nosecone, without the shoulder, is around 1.5g. I could lighten the tip section of mine some more, I also could sand and polish the PETG print a lot and it already contains a working shoulder section so I actually think this approach is not far of being competitive with this first, larger sized one, at 3.26g. I'm pretty sure at 40mm diameter with some work I could get these under 2g similar to the vacuum formed styrene ones with paper shoulders that people seem to use. Of course a pointier geometry means you could entirely vase mode a very light nosecone as I did on my <a href="https://concretedog.blogspot.com/2018/05/broken-uk-rocket-altitude-record.html">UK altitude record holding "Imp" rocket design</a>.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8020589647029137450.post-79482777671608702352022-06-04T09:32:00.001-07:002022-06-06T03:24:40.928-07:00Creality Ender 2 Pro 3D printer review.<p></p><div style="text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrixvvkJKIsOoOQjL4WjRDGuC38hJSSfNf6Yo2Ud5VLxZIv2BiiKJ9KltCs6oB4ka1HycmFgQow8_zL4DLVZNbeAMBQbtN-rrb-_fpDTYU1EMAQdF7n6BG6L6fN_n7Mbj2LhVpz9gkIJ9Kx3sgNbNBrGVuR64FHoBY6OJpbQcmLdmVInvwIu4nLQb-/s4000/IMG_20220522_185225.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrixvvkJKIsOoOQjL4WjRDGuC38hJSSfNf6Yo2Ud5VLxZIv2BiiKJ9KltCs6oB4ka1HycmFgQow8_zL4DLVZNbeAMBQbtN-rrb-_fpDTYU1EMAQdF7n6BG6L6fN_n7Mbj2LhVpz9gkIJ9Kx3sgNbNBrGVuR64FHoBY6OJpbQcmLdmVInvwIu4nLQb-/w480-h640/IMG_20220522_185225.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I feel pretty lucky, I work hard and have to hustle but I get to work and write about stuff that I really enjoy and sometimes wonderful things happen! A couple of weeks ago I was discussing the new Creality Ender 2 Pro with <a href="https://twitter.com/Woodpunk">@Woodpunk </a>who had been a great advocate for the original Ender 2 as a cheap small from factor printer for farming. Particularly towards the end of their commercial life the Ender 2 was often to be found for under £100. Mr Woodpunk was considering getting the new ender 2 pro out of curiosity but in a fit of unbridled wonderfulness he decided instead to send me one to outsource the research to me!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">So I see the Ender 2 Pro retailing in the UK at between £140 and £170 (the lower price being from <a href="https://technologyoutlet.co.uk/">technology outlet </a>who I have bought off previously and had good service) and it arrives extremely well packaged with all tools and decent instructions for the pretty straight forward assembly. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUsW_9Xs7MgPxwvwCcKxfFtaI1Zsz1iw0X64_RomKum-yVnuOaarWxNktt8BCwRqUEuLIJQ4YmNb6uWc2G9B_1XxLHrnTgg-vjsponHpB8r0OTA3LiOTjP6s9CdlhEYuPsKgIjUf1Vg-wAuApRETxgErbj29EHKVFacp5OxIlYtwyPzSqJn0Jraqih/s4000/IMG_20220522_154056.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUsW_9Xs7MgPxwvwCcKxfFtaI1Zsz1iw0X64_RomKum-yVnuOaarWxNktt8BCwRqUEuLIJQ4YmNb6uWc2G9B_1XxLHrnTgg-vjsponHpB8r0OTA3LiOTjP6s9CdlhEYuPsKgIjUf1Vg-wAuApRETxgErbj29EHKVFacp5OxIlYtwyPzSqJn0Jraqih/w640-h480/IMG_20220522_154056.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It went together in about 20 minutes and only really needed 7 bolts inserting and tightening up and a few well labelled cables connecting up. It's a smart looking unit with a carry handle on the top of the Z axis tower for portability and the rather nice filament spool holder rotates in and out for a stowed and deployed position. It does make it pretty small if you want to put it away and not have it permanently taking up desk space or if you need to carry it elsewhere. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">On this unit I found all the belts to be at a decent tension and all the vee wheels running smoothly with no play and it didn't need any tweaks mechanically apart from setting up and levelling the heated bed. I'm spoilt these days by my Prusa Mini + (<a href="https://twitter.com/Woodpunk">which I reviewed in Hackspace Magazine Issue 53</a> ) which has the automatic bed probing and compensation but in a way setting up and levelling a print bed is a better solution as you aren't forcing a compensation in the build rather getting it right from the start! The bed has large turn wheels fitted and it's pretty straightforward to level using a piece of paper for a feeler gauge. Better than my first printer, the Wanhao I3 V2 you can see in the background which had no wheels fitted and where the first item I had to print! Whilst I could add a probe in the future, I only had to level the bed twice on setup after thermally cycling it and haven't had to tweak it so I doubt I would add one. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I've LOVED the removable print surface on my Prusa, and it's great to see that budget end machines are starting to include this. The print surface on the Ender 2 Pro is very good in terms of print adhesion and release and it works very well. A minor gripe is that it's incredibly flexible and the magnetic bed grabs it a little well making it hard to line up before the bed grabs it, but really that's a tiny tiny concern. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZua1CizQp1-O0flacop3TzCW7i9h1WgD24D2apsRUQdnzQ3CyUmYwSwaDT256yFJwpGV3pf6ymT0Ef3ZpbELyoT87Ad7USOtE6g65cUlw6tfvv4cNs4SyHS2BBQEouF-stXX2DYnknU2vz806Jxa0bPFXijMJSgMIQXXgXy3aPTBTMTysiuoSyyUE/s4000/IMG_20220522_160453.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZua1CizQp1-O0flacop3TzCW7i9h1WgD24D2apsRUQdnzQ3CyUmYwSwaDT256yFJwpGV3pf6ymT0Ef3ZpbELyoT87Ad7USOtE6g65cUlw6tfvv4cNs4SyHS2BBQEouF-stXX2DYnknU2vz806Jxa0bPFXijMJSgMIQXXgXy3aPTBTMTysiuoSyyUE/w480-h640/IMG_20220522_160453.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The LCD display clips on and is easy to read with a familiar Marlin firmware. Whilst again after using a prusa mini + with it's snazzy 32bit controller and hi res display this feels a little low tech it's absolutely fit for purpose, responsive and easy to read. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi1zMB82k9b3gMVEAlce0UG5lJOJtikUxA0pDNFbUtj9l9H_wZvexpnGMLm36nP7dTep2tmkotCEJ2KMALqgRC7RTSvoVsvo0sJP5AzPOjIuXVI146yvZq8z7tzzFAYNiHwF7IKJwl-7xhdzAAwxAp320RykB2bRqoXhwfX11eSv0K15C2UECDLjDu/s4000/IMG_20220522_162931.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi1zMB82k9b3gMVEAlce0UG5lJOJtikUxA0pDNFbUtj9l9H_wZvexpnGMLm36nP7dTep2tmkotCEJ2KMALqgRC7RTSvoVsvo0sJP5AzPOjIuXVI146yvZq8z7tzzFAYNiHwF7IKJwl-7xhdzAAwxAp320RykB2bRqoXhwfX11eSv0K15C2UECDLjDu/w640-h480/IMG_20220522_162931.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p>The included micro SD card has some documentation, some windows software and the obligatory example file gcode for printing. Loading up the sample creality PLA and setting it off it produced a very nice bunny model albeit with a noticable Z seam on the reverse side. Print quality was amazing though apart from that and it felt like a very good start. </p><p>I haven't used the Cura profile provided for slicing as I am a fan of PrusaSlicer now and I was pleased to see that there is a beta configuration for the Ender 2 Pro included in the latest version. I tinkered with a few prints using the default settings of the PrusaSlicer ender 2 pro profile and initially had reasonable result but with constant blobbing/zits at new layer start points. The ender 2 pro is a bowden set up and it's quite a short bowden tube which means that there is quite a lot of pressure in the hot end. I knew I needed to up the retraction amount and speed but initially this seemed to make little difference. I was puzzled but began to suspect that the included SD card wasn't particularly quick and that the machine seemed to be making some longer pauses at layer change than I expected. I grabbed a better brand micro SD and tried again, this, combined with what seem astronomically high retraction distances (6-8mm) and near light speed retraction rates.. (200mm/s plus!) the blobbing and oozing was cured. So far it's had trials with a variety of PLA and some nice Prusament PETG as well as some cheap generic PETG. It's handled it all very well. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDgAoCgnQr_WwiIAmYqWnB_MLb0rG7TQVBKwz1oIuUb0TC9W7kM7_0dnWr5ytqvz0H139kniP6xwMa90JfcE6zhPuE1JyFO0Ze2vNK5ipg0asPb7MI_FZCNWjZ5U5p-jNKwNbcYBQysgSV-lJ2m9JiNtvLoadxQRVJSdDV1_2bAGtjAU0QAODPEFw7/s4000/IMG_20220522_185000.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDgAoCgnQr_WwiIAmYqWnB_MLb0rG7TQVBKwz1oIuUb0TC9W7kM7_0dnWr5ytqvz0H139kniP6xwMa90JfcE6zhPuE1JyFO0Ze2vNK5ipg0asPb7MI_FZCNWjZ5U5p-jNKwNbcYBQysgSV-lJ2m9JiNtvLoadxQRVJSdDV1_2bAGtjAU0QAODPEFw7/w640-h480/IMG_20220522_185000.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>In conclusion I'd say this is a great printer for the price, although there are a lot of great printers around the £140 to £200 mark these days. It is certainly capable of producing good prints straight out of the box and it has some nice support and user communities building around it already. I can only imagine making 2 changes to this machine. The first is, this is an incredibly quiet printer.. ruined by one fan in the power supply... honestly this is such a shame as the fans on the hotend and the steppers are incredibly quiet for a budget printer but the cheap fan in the integrated power supply is really loud, Creality really missed a trick there as an extra dollar or two on that fan component and people would be amazed how quiet this thing can print. Secondly, I don't like the fact that the top of the Z axis lead screw is floating... it seems like with all the handle assembly up there they could have popped a bearing in that could support the end of the screw. I can't say I've had any problems though with taller prints so it's only really an issue in my own mind! <p></p><p>So there we go. It's an excellent printer. It's definitely going to get used and it's probably going to get abused with weird filaments and experiments as, at the price point, it's a great printer to not be too precious about. </p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX2sGmAfi-Ixu69xG4zxhAiIjg80v8hF0LDMrZgzgJj5Zs_uTlnWesioYgRDrixfe3AfrSv1QfqUdlgmk8JUNMQ-kYtpQZxukZn5_dSJ2Td8BnCdZKA58Bezq1Fg6lcsiIglhzwv_hJC5MeNHACXHis9a07AVNhM8Fltxk7omZm7mlc5OIdLxhOQ8E/s4000/IMG_20220522_191338.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX2sGmAfi-Ixu69xG4zxhAiIjg80v8hF0LDMrZgzgJj5Zs_uTlnWesioYgRDrixfe3AfrSv1QfqUdlgmk8JUNMQ-kYtpQZxukZn5_dSJ2Td8BnCdZKA58Bezq1Fg6lcsiIglhzwv_hJC5MeNHACXHis9a07AVNhM8Fltxk7omZm7mlc5OIdLxhOQ8E/w480-h640/IMG_20220522_191338.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p></p>concretedoghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16289364239177611355noreply@blogger.com0